Aquaboy DX

[aballen]

Well I'm starting my Aquaboy, and I though a build thread would be nice.  It seems rather complicated, so I'll share my trials with you all.  I don't know if will be done in time for the monthly build contest, so I'm putting my thread here.

here is what I have done so far.

Day 1: just the resistors.



Day 2: capacitors, diodes, and sockets.



That is all I had in my stockpile, so I've ordered the remaining parts, expect some more updates next week.

[gingataff]

what caps are you using, are they the epcos from mouser?

I need to start my aquaboy soon so I'll be following this pretty closely:)

Sent from my SC-02B using Tapatalk 2

[alanp]

Interesting. What are you using to hold the PCB? (I think I may have to get one of those hobby vices.)

And I'd like to know about the caps too, they look like those little bars of soap you get free at motels (I like the look!)

[aballen]

The blue ones are EPCOS, from mouser, they are relatively cheap, boxed film, and I've been pretty happy with them.

The rest are ceramics, I really hate using them, but the mica caps tend to be a bit big. I really prefer mica because 20% off on a 100-470 pf cap is just way more of a swing than I'm comfortable with.  mica are pricey, but you can get 1%, 2%, 5%... but for that accuracy you pay $$ and space.

Also the resistors are mostly KOA speer, they cost a bit more than tadya, but they are physicall beefier, the wire is thicker... I've switched to tadya though, 1% is 1% no matter where you get them.

also there are a lot of SIL sockets for resistors that may need tuning according to the documentation. and for the MN3005s

[midwayfair]

You can get 5% ceramic caps:

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors/_/N-5g90?No=25&P=1z0wpn9Z1z0x6frZ1z0x83kZ1z0x1d4

They're pricey for ceramic but certainly cheaper than mica.

EDIT: Also, thanks for the build thread ... I'll also be watching closely, as the Aquaboy is next on my bench.

[aballen]

You are watching me, I'm watching you, I think we are going to create some kind of paradox here

You can get 5% ceramic caps:

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors/_/N-5g90?No=25&P=1z0wpn9Z1z0x6frZ1z0x83kZ1z0x1d4

They're pricey for ceramic but certainly cheaper than mica.

EDIT: Also, thanks for the build thread ... I'll also be watching closely, as the Aquaboy is next on my bench.

[stecykmi]

You are watching me, I'm watching you, I think we are going to create some kind of paradox here

You can get 5% ceramic caps:

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Ceramic-Capacitors/Ceramic-Disc-Capacitors/_/N-5g90?No=25&P=1z0wpn9Z1z0x6frZ1z0x83kZ1z0x1d4

They're pricey for ceramic but certainly cheaper than mica.

EDIT: Also, thanks for the build thread ... I'll also be watching closely, as the Aquaboy is next on my bench.

you boys be good and don't blow up the universe!

[aballen]

Got my mouser shipment today, so I'm going to try to put in some more parts.

I'm planning on running MN3005s at 15V, so after reviewing the updated doc, here is what I think I need to do next.

R13 and R14, need to be removed and socketed(I put 10K in there since there was no * on the parts list), notes show 33-47k for running at 15V I think I'll start at 47K and see if there is any distortion

R27, 55, and 58 get jumpers

I also need to remove D1, along with a jumpered R58
D2 stays empty according to note on power supplies, however it does not say it should be jumpered.
Looking at the schematic, I think this is correct, 9-15vDC connects through D3 a 1N914,and two resistors of 22, and 100R, so 122R.  Pretty much the full 15V to the BBDs

R56, already socketed, I'll start with 470K

I also attached wires for the switch and the ghost mod.


I build my road rage as well, note from the side view the regulator is not touching the board.  I've seen regulators bolted down to boards to work like a heat sink but  this board has pads for a pot that I'm not using, so Idont want it to make contact to the board.




I'm not putting in the 3005s or the 3101 till everything is done, should have my small bear order with vactrol and pots tomorrow.  Brian was kind enough to send me a !M trimmer, cause I could not find one.

Getting pretty close.

[aballen]

Just noticed I have an ne570 and a sas571.

Anyone have a recommendation? 

Is one more mojo?

[TreeSlayer]

i sent you the MN3005's today. thinkin you should have them in a couple of days.

TS

[aballen]

I got the last few parts in today(sort-of) and I though I would try something new on the pots with this build.  Since I may need to get under the pots for debugging I soldered leads to the pots, and then soldered the leads in, like so.



If I need to get to the board, I can just ned the pots/leads back like so, just some insurance so I dont have to try to desolder these.

It will be easy to mount the pots properly once I'm sure everything works... at least thats my plan.

the board is populated, and I was planning on testing tomorrow morning, however I don't seem to be able to locate my MN3101s... and I've already soldered in my roadrage at 15v.




I can't find words for how bummed I am right now, I've been through my parts like three times.  I'll try again in the morning, if I cant find them, I'll order a couple more and have to wait another week.

[aballen]

Ok I pulled a 3101 from a chorus pedal... I'm getting clean out... Lots of trimming to do.  I hope to have an update tonight.

[madbean]

You need to remove D3. D3 is ONLY to be used for the MN3101/v3205 combination.

From the doc: NOTE: if you are using the MN3101 with the v3205, you must use D3 to approximate the correct Vgg voltage for pin8 of the clock (14/15 of Vdd). In all other cases (including when using an MN3102, BL3102 or v3102) you should omit D3.

[aballen]

Thanks brian, I just removed it.

[aballen]

Ok, so far one 3005 was a dud, but I think I have it pretty well trimmed out now.  Here is a sample of some bad playing.  Its running at 15V, and I really like the way the repeats "bloom".  I wish I had an o-scope to get this set up right, but I think its pretty good.



I have a few more 3005s to test, but ill be putting back these two since its trimmed for these.