rullywowr - I don't have any problems with getting the powder to stick to the boxes. There is an earth cable that goes from the gun to the bit I'm coating and the instructions say to hold the gun with bare hands, I'm guessing for the ground. On the website of where I got the gun, the used to sell one with the separate power pack, but changed the design of it now. There is now only the compressor airline to the gun, then the earth cable from the gun to the part. Less wires to tangle up I suppose. Also, on their website, it also shows how you can coat glass, ceramics and wood! I'm tempted to try powder coating one of my glass demi johns for wine making!
The toner transfer decals unfortunately didn't work. Seems the acrylic medium melts in the over when curing the clear powder coat and makes an absolute mess of the box. It was worth a try as is would have been a ridiculously cheap and easy way of doing graphics on the boxes. The other option, is to use a normal spray paint laquer, bit then that would defeat the hole point of having a powder coat system and the extra durability it gives over spray paint.
I've now ordered some water slide decals, and got a couple of questions. Do I need to do full face decals? Or can I cut the decal sheet into parts for different parts of the pedal? For example, tone and volume knob labeling, can I use 2 separate small labels just slightly bigger then the writing? Thinking a decal sheet would last a lot longer that way. Also, I've got both laser and inject printers, so I ordered the sheets for laser printer. Am I right in saying that they don't need to be clear coated before putting them into water and they are less likely to go brown when curing the clear coat?
One last thing, I powder coated a couple of boxes yesterday, and the paint it's thicker in some parts more then others. Is that normal?
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