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Admittedly, I have not done a dual delay v3205, so I haven't had to deal with this problem.

When you swapped R15, what value did you use?

The goal here is to bleed a little more signal to ground, so picking a low value for R15 will enable this to happen. A socket there and some experimentation might yield more positive results.

An increase in the Bias pot to 50k may further help this.

To raise the headroom, you could instead substitute a 7v or 8v regulator. I think I might have a 7v one. Or, you could use an 8.2v Zener in place of R19 which might be just enough to get it to operate in the correct range. I have some of those as well. I'd be happy to send the regulator and zener along to you.

Changing the preceding transistor will not have any noticeable effect since it's used as a buffer to make up signal lost from the filtering network.

I definitely like the Sharpie!

Now, if you get bored of that some time, crumple up a little aluminum foil, douse with Acetone and start spotting the Sharpie ink. It will melt away the ink lines and make it look like a translucent finish.

Dude, nice build and good for you for thinking out of the box on how you placed it.

Also, shit, don't wait two weeks for a socket. PM me! I have everything...

Apparently the TCL2272 should fry at 18v, but I've been able to do it.

It means it can handle a 36v differential. So, if you were running a bi-polar supply it could handle up to 18v either way.

The NE5532 is a good choice, so is the LF353N. And, don't discount the good ol' 4558, or the 4580, either!

Mouser has 5mm WIMA box caps. Poly film and some polypropelyne.

Also, for 1uF film, I suggest the Panasonic ECQ-V if you are ordering from Mouser. A little cheaper and sound just as good.

Took delivery on the remaining boards this morning. Firing up the printer for postage right now!

Higher resistance means higher noise, hence the use of metal film. I use carbon film for most of the smaller values because that's what I have and the noise impact is lower, or so I've read. It just depends on what I'm building...I usually decide on the fly.

These look as good as any commercial pedal out there. Nicely done!

Yeah, that's really cool. I think a single 2" support bar under the stomp side will work for reinforcement.

In general, I use metal for 100k and up. Below that I tend to use carbon film.

Looks like they have updated the desing for the DSO Nano since I bought mine:
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/dso-nano-v2-p-681.html?cPath=104_108

Do you know what series they are? There will be a datasheet that explains exactly what the numbering means.

I'm think 1n and k tolerance, which is either 5 or 10%.

Let me see how it turns out first before I make a decision. I'd really like to build it, so that's a good sign that it will be done sooner rather than later. If I offer it, it would be like the Uproar---in small batches from time to time.

I still need to get the Weener Wah, reverb and vibe done, too, so there's a lot on my plate. Also, the Les Lius variant. I think I have some other shit, too...I dunno, I have like 15 unfinished projects.

Actually, I just got curious and counted the number of projects in my Eagle directory (never did this). I have 109 finished/unfinished! I need to get out more...seriously.

I don't know too much about it. Actually, nothing!

However, I did come up with a rough design for a bass-specific overdrive. I was messing around with the old Contro Fuzz design the other day, and thought of a way to mod it more for bass. It sounds pretty terrible on guitar, but with the right mojo it can be turned into a blended distortion that's layered on top of the clean bass signal.