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Ditto... this is a nice build. Any mods? One stop bass players shop!

I likey!

Thanks again for the continued compliments.
Its nice to see my idea come to reality. This turned out way, way nicer than I had envisioned it!
This seems to be the case with most of the ideas I come up with for some reason.
Any rate, thx everybody!

Cleaned up some of the wires that I was not comfortable with. After some online investigation, the TL072 is supposedly a better IC than the 4558's, so I put the back in. I think I am glad I did. Sounds a bit warmer. Also, tried the bypassed tone compared to the engaged clean setting with tone at 12 oclock. The sound is exactly the same. I'm so happy with this build. I'm having trouble putting my guitar down. Thanx madbean!

I saw that after I realized how nice they sounded. Seems to be an insane price. But hey, if someone wanted to give me 20 bux a piece for a thousand pieces, I'm game.

I had them stashed away in my personal stock. Never touched by human hands. Had no idea they were worth that much. It pays to never throw anything away.

I also have two other types.

CR100
CR220

Several hundred NOS unknown zeners with Gold Filaments as well. Sheesh... I'm always finding stuff!

I need to try these as well.

Conclusion... LM313H is a bipolar reference diode.

1n34a's and BAT41's worked when installed correctly, but the LM313H whips them all over the wall!

Havin two sunkings in one box helps with the auditioning of diodes for sure!

A fellow forum member helped bring an issue to my attention. It seems I had my diodes hooked up incorrectly all along. When I finally got a result that was acceptable, I was using LM313H Reference Diodes. I did not know that these are bipolar. After furthur investigation I was able to try other types like 34a's and Bat41's with impressive results, but they still didn't hold a candle to that of the LM313H. For now, the 313 stays. Way more headroom and Gain range!

Ahhhhhhhh.... Makes perfect sense!

I have them reversed in there right now, but that must mean they are not reversed at all.

But the tone is so gooooood! I will reluctantly try the right way. I am absolutely lovin' the tone I have on mine at the moment, but this inherently makes more sense. Hmmmm... missed it completely! Thx for the insight. I had never really looked that closely on the board itself!

I was looking at your board pic posted above. Looks good. Was wondering something. When checking out the board layout verses the schatic that Brian has provided in the sunking PDF doc, the schem denotes the clip diodes to be reversed from each other. The board itself depicts they both be arrange with the same polarity (stripes to ground). I wonder which one we are really supposed to do here and if putting both stripes to ground makes an impact!

I first noticed this because this is how your 34a's are hooked up in the pic. Am I correct or am I blind.. hehe

I'm interested in trying this.

I'll admit that with so much wiring in this pedal, there was some crosstalk goin' on. So I started sheilding input wires until that was resolved. I may still need to shield some more wires and that may solve the issue with regular diodes. I do plan to clean up a bit in there. There are some sires that I am not comfortable with at the moment and I'll bet they are the culprits.

Other than that, everything sounds incredible!!

Lemme see if I can get something recorded for you guys in the next couple of days. I can't guarantee anything, but I will try. I need to overcome this demon anywayz!

My Twin is in major need of some preamp tubes. I have tons of them, but need to weed out some qualifying candidates. That project is on the docket for today.

Lemme try to explain the chain here.

Input - On/Off - I/II - Output

Each Sunking has a toggled bypass which enables the use of its buffer (wired just like a Klon).

Each Sunking is then fed to a 3 prong Switchcraft Jack, used as a TRS Loop (Channel Insert for sound engineers), of which is engage via its own True Bypass Toggle Switch. After that, it comes back to the I/II switch.

The I/II switch has both channels wired in parallel, with the main On/Off feeding the center lugs.

The relay controls the color of the I/II LED indicator and gives you a visual confirmation of which Sunking you are engaging (I=Red, II=Green), and its power leg is wired to the 3rd pole of the I/II 3PDT switch

No magic here... just some very useful switching capabilities.

Sound Sample?

this... I have never done. So, at some point maybe I'll get around to making one. Wish me luck on that. I am always afraid of posting something that sound like pure junk, not because of the gear, but because of what the recording is being played through.

Any suggestions on how to do this and have a nice signal? By the way, I have no mixer, but do have a DBX mini-pre that might do the job. Got some good mics too. Why I never use them, I'll never know!

By the way, I forgot to mention the finish on this is great! I did something similar with an old Dunlop Fuzz Face enclosure. I used a Black & Decker Mouse Sander with steel wool stuck to the bottom of it and used Flitz for the polish compound. After about 20 minutes, I got a mirror finish. Sanded to 800 by hand, then polished with the B&D Mouse!! HEHE!! Still looks nice. Something about sanding with polish seems to impregnate the metal, if the temperature gets somewhat warm. Probably have no idea what I am talking about, but the Fuzz Face box was done 3 months ago and it still shines bright!

Great looking Klone!!

Thanks alot guyz! What do you usually win in Build-Offs?