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Messages - pauloman80

#106
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Dig Dug Trouble
September 14, 2010, 01:30:22 PM
Quote from: scdesigns on September 14, 2010, 12:48:58 PM
Bump for ideas! Thinking maybe the opto isn't working as it should? I'm really stumped on this one, I've etched another to test out we'll see what happens there but some input from anyone who's sucessfully got this going would be great.

The only thing I can think of is the range pots you used might have the wrong taper and the wrong values for this build.  I don't know what you used, but if you're not noticing a change until the range pots are wide open then my guess would be you accidentally used reverse audio taper pots when standard audio or linear taper should have been used, plus the value when the pots are wide open doesn't seem high enough to make a noticeable difference.  I don't see anywhere on the build doc that indicates what taper and value those pots should be...  Then again I could be talking out of my rear.  ???  But like I said, that's really the only thing that comes to mind as far as what you're experiencing.
#107
Open Discussion / Re: Quick, easy tutorials
September 14, 2010, 12:02:48 PM
Quote from: jkokura on September 14, 2010, 05:44:48 AM
I think a good tutorial on how to build, setup and use a testing rig would be good to start with. Beavis has a good one I'm sure you know, but a good one here would be good too. Sound good?

Jacob

+1.  I really like the setup Brian has and would love to replicate it.
#108
Quote from: Haberdasher on September 12, 2010, 06:20:03 PM
I have safari 5.02 for windows on this pc and it looks the same as the other browsers to me.  It must display differently in the older version.  I've seen that happen before.

Very true.  I'm more irritated by the so-called "big" websites that don't take the extra time to debug their pages for different browsers, i.e. major news networks, corporate websites, etc.  But I also never fully understood why people don't get the latest version of their browser when it's fully available and out of beta... *shrug* Diff'rent strokes fer diff'rent folks, I s'pose!

Thanks for taking the time to make sure everyone has the best user experience possible on your site, Brian. 

\m/ >.< \m/
#109
Love the new layout, my friend!  Nice to have the pedals organized according to function.  Well done!
#110
General Questions / Re: MudBunny/ Mayo PCB/Layout values
September 07, 2010, 08:00:48 PM
I'd say it's going to sound pretty much just like a Mayo, it's just that Brian (Madbean) take the signal on a different route through different combinations of caps and resistors to get the same voltage values at the key locations in the circuit, therefore creating the same sound as the Mayo. 

However, if anyone finds this interpretation to be incorrect please feel free to correct me.  :)
#111
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Krankasaurus - Led Wiring
September 07, 2010, 04:04:54 PM
Quote from: madbean on September 07, 2010, 02:25:34 PM
Paulo,

In that diagram, when the effect is engaged, your LED is connected directly to ground. The other end of the 4k7 is not connected to anything. When the effect is off, the 4k7 connects from the FX input to ground. This is not what you want. To make this work, put the 4k7 between A2 and A3. Then, attach ground to A3 and B3.
When the switch is "up", A1 and A2 are connected, which connects the LED to the 4k7. When the switch is "down" the LED is disconnected from the resistor, and the FX input is grounded via B3.

Essentially you're saying the resistor isn't doing anything in the setup I have?  Wouldn't surprise me.  :)  So what exactly is it supposed to do?  I have my switches and LEDs set up exactly like this for my Krank builds, and I haven't noticed any problems associated with it.  Thanks.
#112
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Krankasaurus - Led Wiring
September 07, 2010, 01:47:40 PM
If I may, I'll weigh in on this since this was my first build and I ran into the same issue.   ;D

Here's essentially what was shared with me on another msg board, I changed it slightly by relocating the resistor for the LED.



In the case of the Krank, the switch for the distortion side will send its To Output to the From Input of the boost side.  Also, each LED will need to draw power directly from the 9V supply, so from your DC jack you'll connect to the lead for the PCB itself and each LED (four connections).  I just put them together and heat-shrinked the junction, no problems.
#113
I was building a few Slamboxes yesterday with one of my church players: one for me, one for him and one for his son.  For the life of us we could not get the LED to light up.  Signal path was fine, the pedal functioned aurally the way it's supposed to, but that dang LED would not pass go and collect its $200.  I was getting frustrated as I was all ready to do the LED+Plexiglas border. 

On a whim, my friend swapped the LED leads going into the board, and BAM.  Worked like a charm.  So either the board is incorrect, LED's use square terminal for negative instead of positive, or we goofed something else along the line.  Can anyone else confirm? 

I'm just happy it works now.  Will try to post pics in a couple days, flying out today for a gig up in DC. 
#114
Build Reports / Re: Combo TS808 + Rebote Delay 2.5
August 19, 2010, 03:18:19 PM
That is very cool. 
#115
'Nother player here.  Primarily the church world, I've been a worship pastor by vocation for the past several years.  I also do lots of gigging outside the church, and have worked in vintage stores from time to time.  That's where I got my repair/building experience, and building these stomps has seriously accelerated my abilities as far as diagnosing and repairing busted stuff. 
#116
Open Discussion / Re: New PCB 9/05
August 19, 2010, 03:15:02 PM
Quote from: Haberdasher on August 19, 2010, 03:04:09 AM
Exciting stuff!

Thanks for all your work, Brian.  I don't say it often, but I think this is some awfully cool stuff you do here.  People like me appreciate it.  8)

+1.  I'm just glad there's someone with as much brains as you making these boards.  I've been studying them and the schematics for weeks now, still can't figure out how to connect the dots as it were from the schematic to the board artwork.  You make it easier for semi-dumb guys like me!  ;D
#117
If this isn't really a mod, feel free to delete.  :D

My first build was the Krankosaurus.  Love it, but at first I was having issues with the overall tone.  Wayyy too much bass, getting a really squished sound, more like a fuzz than a Marshall-esque distortion.  As per suggested by Madbean:

C1 - replace with 22n.  After dialoging with an electrical engineering buddy, I learned the 22n is a more suitable high-pass filter for the initial signal coming through the pedal.  ;D
#118
Quote from: Haberdasher on August 09, 2010, 06:30:31 PM
http://www.pedalppartsplus.com has boatloads of 'em

I had to navigate around a bit because the colors weren't where I thought they'd be, but them's some good-lookin' colors & finishes!  Thanks for the tip!
#119
Quote from: jkokura on August 09, 2010, 07:40:41 PM
John Lyons does amazing work:

http://www.mrdwab.com/john/custombox.html

Jacob

I know he does.  I contacted him.  He said he's not doing them anymore because the payoff isn't worth the amount of time he spends working on them.  I nearly cried.  His work is un-freakin'-believable, and it's out of reach.  :'(
#120
Open Discussion / Re: Parts kits
August 10, 2010, 01:39:53 PM
Quote from: jkokura on August 09, 2010, 07:45:18 PM
Smallbear has it going on.

Jacob

Here's another vote for Smallbear.  My only complaint about Mouser is their inventory is next to impossible to navigate, at least for me.  Yikes.  On the other side, Smallbear is a bit... spartan with how their inventory is listed.  But it's still much easier for me to find what I need than at Mouser.  Just my $.02.