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I'm not really a fuzz guy, but I've been playing this one a lot the past few weeks.  I used the "All American" PNP set from Small Bear, sounds great.

A couple of band inspired builds: 

The first is a Lectric-FX Celeste Chorus (EHX Clone Theory).  Peter Hook used this circuit in Joy Division.   

The second is a Fuzz Dog clone of a Univox Superfuzz used by Poison Ivy of the Cramps. 

I recently acquired from a MB member a Rust Bucket PCB.  However, looking at the parts list and complexity I was thinking of building a Slow Gear from OSHpark instead. 

Has anyone tried both circuits?  Opinions on the sound? 

This might be my best build yet.  The finish is hard capture in a picture.  I't a polished aluminum box with a waterslide and several coats of clear. This is the second Dimension C I've built.  It's such a pretty board when populated. 

On both builds I used Cool Audio BBDs and set them to 3.4 V with the DMM.  The effect worked great with those settings.  Double checking with the scope, it didn't need any adjustment.  In fact, on my first build I got myself into the weeds trying to improve it with the scope, ended up taking it out of the box and reseting the trimmers with the DMM.

I changed the LED to white before boxing, think it needed a more spacey vibe.

Hi All,

I just received in the mail today a polished aluminum enclosure from Small Bear.  I wasn't expecting it to look so nice!  It looks like a mirror. 

I plan on applying a clear waterslide decal for the graphics.  I normally finish my enclosures with a few coats of water based Polycrylic (Minwax), but I'm worried it will dull the finish.  Does anyone have advice?

Finally got this dialed in.  Needed a couple of times through to get the trimmers set.  The learning curve on these 3007 builds is rough, but I'm starting to get the hang of it.  Thanks to all the people on the forum who answer my dumb questions!

I'm finally got the set up dialed in.  It sounds great. 

Thanks to folks on the forum for all their help.   

Really happy with this build.  It came out nice and sounds great. 

I used all stock values, except the substitution of 100nF at C15 described in another post.

The Thripidity is nice for adding two LEDs.  I connected a resister to each LED and jumpered the CLR on the board.

Was wondering:

I have some nice audio caps (50V nichicon KW(M)) but they are all on the high end of spec ~26uF.

I also have some low leakage caps (25V nichicon KL(M)), they are all pretty close to spec ~23uF.

Which should I use?

Sorry if this seems crazy.  I'm pretty excited about this build and I want it to be as good as I can get it.  Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,

I recently put together some of the advice I got on the forum into method to calibrate the Current Lover (2015) with a frequency counter or an o-scope:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27581.msg267134#msg267134

I'd like to do the same thing with the Collosalus.  Will the procedure be the same?  Should the clock frequency be set to 70kHz?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,

I was hoping somebody with knowledge would be willing to lay out a method to calibrate the Current Lover (2015) with a frequency counter (if possible) or an o-scope.  I'm having some trouble with calibrating by ear.  I've gotten it to work, but I was looking for a more systematic way to get it really nice.   

I've looked at other MB posts and found the following reference: Mistress Mystery page http://www.metzgerralf.de/elekt/stomp/mistress/align.shtml.  I'd guess the Current Lover is a Delux Reissue V4 or V5, but I'm not exactly sure.   

I would really appreciate any help connecting this method to the Current Lover or developing a new method for calibration.