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More reading material for you:
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/panner.pdf

I must stick a post-it note on my monitor: check Geofex
The last past of that document shows what I had in mind. The hum issues can be solved with a transformer for one output channel. I once designed a 3 way splitter with transformers, worked like a charm. That was basically also taken Geofex by the way.

I offered to build him this.  Even have a transformer that'd work.  He just wants me to add dc jack to his AB pedal.  I asked him if he was sure it was an active box and not just a battery to power an led.  He is certain he wants a jack put in:)
I learned something along the way...thanks to everyone who contributed.


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Not necessarily the solution you want, but it will answer some technical questions:
http://www.thatcorp.com/datashts/dn120.pdf

The simple solution is given early on in that doc:

The pan potentiometer (pan pot) allows users to steer an audio signal between two channels and, unlike standard potentiometers which have a linear taper, or audio potentiometers which have something like a log taper, the elements in a pan pot will have something approximating a sin vs. cos taper.  The intent is to yield a constant power  sum of the two output channels as the pan control is swept.

The common method of implementing a pan pot, using a single linear potentiometer with the wiper grounded, and resistors of approximately equal value to the pan pot connected appropriately, approximates the sin vs. cos taper described earlier.

Thanks EBK.  I've bookmarked that and will check it out at lunch.


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I feel like this should be required reading for people considering "getting into" pedal making.

Why? Because...

The questions you THINK/HOPE you're gonna get
-----I think I want to try a Big Muff, can you make me a (insert BMP variety)? Make sure it has huge knobs!!!!

The questions you ACTUALLY get
-----I need a clean/dirty/fuzz compressor pedal for my Wednesday gigs at Larry's coffee house where the sound guy is horrible. It'd be cool if it would clean up if you rolled back on the guitar volume, but an absolutely MUST-HAVE feature is dotted 8th-octave up-glitch-reverb swells. I'm gonna need it to run in stereo (would prefer three sets of stereo outs, more on that later) and I'm SOL on board space, so can you make it into one of those little mini boxes? If you're gonna use a bigger box, let's go ahead and include a rotating knobs that choose between modes...you know, like (insert commercial unit with SMD components or any bit of NASA equipment) does...that thing is so cool, man. This WILL be the same price as that boost you made me, right?

Lol.  This is what I like about the whole thing.  I like solving problems for people and don't hesitate to say "I'm not your man for that" at the type of request above. 
Thanks for all the feedback ya'll.  I plan to have a conversation with the guy this evening.  Based on our previous conversation I think his response will be "I think I'll use my ABY pedal".
Fun to think through these things:) thanks for joining in the conversation and providing ideas and sounding board!


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Thanks Jon for the input.  I had a similar thought about dual gang pot.  It really is helpful to have an outside opinion. Thanks also to Rockhorst.  I really appreciate it guys.


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My concern is in the "in between" positions on the pot.   He wants the option to have signal going to both amps in various proportions.  I.e.
60% of signal going to amp A and 40% going to Amp B.

What will be the experience of the listener or sound man as this guy selects combination of both amps.  Will there be significant drops in volume?

I wrote "volume" on the sketch above but it really will serve only to pan.


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I have a guy who wants to split his guitar signal coming off his board.  He wants to be able to direct his signal either to his acoustic amp or electric amp.  He also wants to be able to blend the two. 
I've never done this but I am concerned about volume when at the 50/50 mark on the pan.  Each amp would only receive 50% of the signal.  Wouldn't the perceived volume in the audience be significantly less with only 1/2 signal to each amp.  Not to mention changes in tone from the amps themselves.
Is there a better approach than just a simple Pan from one amp to another?


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Excellent execution


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This is awesome!!


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Prometheus- www.dafont.com
Can't remember the label font


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Very nice!  That finish really does look first class.

The color is Ghost Black from PedalPartsPlus.  It is translucent and show the imperfections of the box but looks slick.  Gloss black shows a ton of finger prints . 
Anyone else using someone different for screenprinting these days?


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Looks like it was a lot fun.  Great memories


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Thanks guys.  One other thing I forgot to mention. I used milled sockets for the ICs.  There wasn't enough space between the CD4047 and the first MN3005.  I had to sit the MN3005 at a slight angle for it to fit properly.  Hit one leg with a small amount of solder to keep it in place.  The other one I built, I skipped the socket on CD4047 and it fit fine.  FYI


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Amazing all around.  That reverse etch really caught my eye!  Where Doug you buy your pieces of acrylic and do you recommend a particular thickness?


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Yes they are Lumberg jacks.
What's up JimiLee?!


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It's been a while since I built a Madbean project and I've been eyeing this one a while.  Had a guy in town post he was interested in building one and might need some guidance.  So we decided to go in together and do up some nice boxes.
Madbean did a bang up job!! Fit perfectly in the 125BB.  Used the Xvive chip with no issues.  Biased by ear and sounds awesome.  I had a vintage DMM on my bench back in April for repair and this one certainly seems less noisy-but still noisy in the repeats:)
I did have an issue with the regulator.  The voltages were all wrong.  It was like I was getting -30v to ground.  I checked all my solder joints and polarity on components.  I had taken a great deal of time and effort to line up the regulator up with the silkscreen and have it laying flat on the PCB.   I lifted the regulator off the PCB just barely and all voltages were corrected.  I built a second board and it had the same issue.  As soon as I lifted the board a bit voltages are good.  Is this a fluke?  Was voltage jumping from the input tab to the ground plane on the PCB through the hole in the PCB?  Sounds crazy but both circuits work perfectly with them just slightly of the board.
Anyway, sounds great.  Incredible planning on Madbeans part...there was like a 1mm clearance around the PCB and enclosure.
Used Inkscape to do up the artwork and had PedalPartsPlus do the printing.  If their printing had been off just a little, things wouldn't have fit. 
Had a lot of fun/challenge in building this circuit.  Now to have fun playing!!


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