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Let me guess ... do you have an order switcher toggle?

I have the same issue, and I do have an order switcher toggle... is that switch the cause? 

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If it's a two in one, you're possibly experiencing heterodyning.
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heterodyning... what is this thing??

I've checked all the connections and are all good... Actually the jack is the "amp jack" and it's soldered directly on the pcb, so there's no wires that I could have wrongly connected...

I just wanted to recreate the JHS "red remote" channel switch circuit... But I can't find out why it perfectly works until VA is touching the enclosure...

Paradoxically, if I test the pcb outside the enclosure, with all Jacks plugged (In, OUT and the fottswitch) it works perfectly...
But when I install the pcb inside the enclosures and even one jack touches the enclosure... It just stops working...

Here's the schemtic...
VC= 5V
VA= 0V (which is connected with a little wire to the DC ground)

I've just found out that the transistor should be 180° rotated... but still doesn't work... The fact is that, when the jack is not plugged in, if I connect the sleeve and the tip of the jack, the transistor perfectly work. But when I plug the jack this makes VA touching the enclosure, and the transistor doesn't work anymore...

Hi guys, I'm having an issue with a switching circuit that I'm using to bypass the fx... The transistor is 2N3906 and it's wired so that when the base is grounded, it activates a (non latching) relay...

The base is grounded through a simple external footswitch.

The problem is that, when the pcb is installed in the enclosure, the Jacks touch the enclosure (grounding it) and this makes the transistor to not work any more...
But when the Jacks don't touch the enclosure it works perfectly...

Why??

Can you help me?

Here is one I had saved

Awsome!! Thanks! So basically I should use a 4pdt toogle switch right?

Hi guys! I'm sure you can help... I'm trying to design a pedal with an overdrive and a boost, each one with their switch.

But I'd like to add a toogle switch to choose the position of the boost (before or after the drive), much like the Fulltone Fulldrive 3...

Do you have a schematic for something like this??

Can someone help me? 

Thanks

Hello, do you know what kind of leds are the ones that Jesse Davies installs in these pedals? 

Here's a little trick that might come in handy if you can't get rid of the popping. It uses a BJT as a switch to turn the LED on a bit more slowly. When the SW connection is closed, current is applied to Q1 base according to the time constant set by the 100k/10uF combo (a second or less @9v). You can increase the time it takes by increasing the value of the 10uF (say 47uF or 100uF).

Great!! Thanks! I'll try it!

Looking at the schematic there is 100k between output and ground so maybe increase that to 1M

I'm pretty sure it's not about pulldown resistors: there's no parasitic voltage at the output... Infact, if I disconnect the led, there's no noise at all when I press the switch... It must be the led.

I was wondering that maybe it could be due to the size of the ground trace coming from the led to the 3pdt

An optical ocmpressor by craig anderton found online...

Hello guys, I hope you can help me!

I wanted to improve my use of Eagle and I had some PCB fabricated for a compressor circuit.
The effect works well except for a little pop noise (actually it's more a "tick" than a "pop") when I switch on the effect.

I'm sure it's the LED, because if I disconnect it from the ground (so that it doesn't light up) there's no noise at all...

I also tried to add a cap and other limiting resistor as shown on Muzique website, but nothing changes...

I'm using a high brightness white led with a 15k limiting resistor tied directly to 9v dc jack (before the diode polarity protection). The negative side of the led is tied to the 3pdt.

I'm wondering if the size of the 9v and ground traces (that go to/from the LED) are somehow related to this... actually the size is 10mils for the ground trace and 15 mils for the 9v.

Could it be due to the LED quality? I used one from China... not the best source I admit...
If so, what LED would you suggest me?

Can someone help me?

Thank you very much!

Hello, I can't find the 1N270 diodes, can I replace them with the 1N34A?

I've chosen to go with 1N5817 in series.

I recently built a Timmy clone and it had one on the vero layout, but my latest build (Lunar Module Deluxe) didn't have one, so I simply soldered one in line with the positive 9v lead.

But, is there any voltage drop accross the diode?

I've chosen to go with 1N5817 in series.

I recently built a Timmy clone and it had one on the vero layout, but my latest build (Lunar Module Deluxe) didn't have one, so I simply soldered one in line with the positive 9v lead.

But Isn't there any voltage drop accross the diode?