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Topics - mikef

Build Reports / SnackShack
April 19, 2020, 02:58:31 PM
Noice lil' Fuzz! Thanks, Brian!
Well, got the fuzz, got the octave..and some hum....any suggestions?!? bypass or active,btw.

Hullo! Well, at last there is a pcb for the clone of the very, Iomi-esque, tychobrahe parapedal available from Pedalpcb. I was lucky to get a nice 2w dual gang 10k pot for my build.($16.99-ouch!)
I know Chicago Iron works has a dead on clone called the Parachute, but I am intrigued at the wilson effects clone and its mods, this from a description on the page, There is an added six position Q switch that adjusts the filter settings of the wah pedal. These range from a high filter sweep to a deep filter sweep and everything else in between. It doesn't stop there. There is also and added sweep knob that allows you to open up the Freaker's sweep to it's maximum width or narrow it down to a thin filter sweep. We have also added an external boost knob to boost the filter above unity gain if needed. The V2 has additional volume available via the volume/boost control at the heel of the pedal as well as a mini toggle located under the treadle of the pedal that allows the user to choose between the original function of the pedal or you can now eliminate the volume drop at the heel of the sweep via this toggle. I am wondering if they could be implemented on my clone build?Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Hello! I have put together the Harbinger Two, but,alas, it is not running like it should.
I had a soldier bridge between two pins on theLT1054 that I corrected. (The ic got a tad bit hot, so it was replaced.)  I have it on 9v regulated bench power, and control wise, the volume is functioning as it is supposed to, the speed is not working, ie no change at either end of the sweep. The intensity, at either end of the pot produces no visible change,unless it's in the middle position. The gain and offset trimmer pots only change the brightness. Now, if I sweep my fingers over the 4 ldrs i get the swooshy goodness!
Hello! I am wondering what y'all do to shrink down the sometimes to large,say1.2M size to a smaller KB acceptable one so as to post here. Thanks :-[
Hullo! Well, I had to break down n order some smaller diameter caps from Mouser (Out of the 2.2uf and 100uf) and was  looking at the 2.2uF  Electrolytic cap in the C4 position and I will be switched if I can see any polarity markings on the PCB. I checked the schematic to see if there was a polarity indicated by that plus sign, but no indication either. Is this a non polarized cap, or typo or what? Can someone let me know  the correct orientation using the IN located one one side/the murata IC on the other? Thanks!
     Hello! My build of Brian's Harbinger two is going along nicely, but I have gotten to the Electrolitical cap stage and have notice a few discrepancies. I scanned the forum for possible corrections and double checked the files that are available over on the main page,thinking that I had an outdated  build docs,but not that I can see.

    Anyway,The Cap designated C30 ,100uF on the  physical PCB, is not on the shopping list page, it does appear on the B.O.M. page. On the schematic, there is a C30,with a 220uf. (The dual 220ufs are C29 and C26.)  !?! and thanks!

I am having a bit of trouble finding the correct size   220 electrolytic  capacitors for the rustbucket and the harbinger two (wah shell version). Tho capacitors I have are quite large and simply will not fit the board without some serious gerrymandering of the parts.  both require  a cap rated at least 25 volts, but the size seems more fitting to the 16 volt sized variety. I am looking for a supplier that has the correct size that will fit. I order from Small Bear and Mammoth electronics, but all they have are these $#@$@% big ones!
General Questions / meat sphere trouble
June 27, 2019, 10:10:25 PM
Hello! I am having some difficulty with the Meat Sphere,( taylors very sweeT pcb, i may ad)
Everything seems to work, but the two diffused green leds  are doing nothing at all. I tried the  VTL 5C3, but I thought they were faulty or just being difficult,as I read over on the other forum they were prone to be,hence opting for the 'Roll your own".
I did install and have  the TL 074 backwards the first time firing it up. I replaced it with a brand new one and also swapped out the LM1458, just to be extra sure. The Photocells  are small bear sku #9200s(CdS 5mm Light Resistance 10 Min,  50KMax,Min. Dark Resistance rated at 5megs.) and when I try different settings and sweep my hands oer them, they are  definitely doing what they are supposed to do. (I will put the leds/cds in a tube sheath/shrink-wrap after i get them greenies working) any input would be greatly appreciated!
Hullo, oh ye brethren of the small boxes that contain galaxies of sound inside!
I have a Weller PES 51 soldering station and being a man of small means,(Actually a lot of the dough goes to Brian because of all them sweet pcbs n projects that issue fourth from the laddies lair,truth be told!) I was contented to use the one tip that was upon  the device,but seems to me 'tis time to replace it.
I know the finer pointed ones are in order for the delicate work? should I stick at getting genuine Weller tips. or some of these off brands ok?

Any body that could chime in I would greatly appreciate it!
General Questions / harmonic engine-noisy in bypass mode-
September 05, 2018, 11:38:36 AM

Hello! Here is a circuit that may be not suitable for stomp-box material, but having built it and plugging up my guitar and running it to my amp, IT SOUNDS KILLER! The PCB is from

I am wondering what sort of bypass switching I should implement.I believe I tried Millennial?  or another bypass switching that I could not recall,as I put it on the shelf, because whatever it was, it was quite noisy (Clock noise) whilst the true bypass switch was engaged. Any thoughts? THANKS!
  I was wondering if some small timing circuit, say a simple 555 type deal, hooked up to the "TGU" / "TGD" /ground on the circuit might give you a  sequencer type function? a foot switch to turn it off and a pot to change speed and a toggle switch to change direction? What say ye all? 9Or Y'all in my neck o the woods.) Thanks!
Hullo, Beans and Bean-ettes!

Got the most fab Mandroid circuit up n going and have a nice Trapazoid Hammond box of the larger variety to put it in. I have a super cool, 1960s chrome and grey-silver hammer-tone Kay volume pedal shell that will do nicely. (My sweet wife gave it to me a few Christmases back.)
To the  question:

What is the correct pot value to use in the mod? audio or linear taper/log?

Cheers and much thanks!
Well I built this freekout, Brians most exellent Eh clone, about a year ago and it has been on the ol pedal board for nearly as that long.
Sure enough, I had a friend over and we were jamming and a high frequency pitch is noticable in the audio chain, one I never heard before. After some plugging and un plugging, I have discovered the Freekout pedal is the culprit.
The board is powered by a one spot pro, out of the 18v slot as required. The  high frequency is noticeable  even in bypass mode, and if you diddle the sweep knob,especially in the last quarter turn, it is there. I thought that i somehow bumped the trimmer, moving the boart,to and fro,but no,trying to readjust the trimmer seems not to help, so I set it back in the middle till there is minimal sound, as prescribed in the build. I have not replaced any parts and I am guessing that maybe a component has gone wonky and something is bleeding in? Thanks! I really hate to blow my audition in that all DEVO tribute band............
General Questions / freekout ring mod acting up
February 11, 2018, 08:58:58 PM
Hullo all! I have had a mad-bean freekouton the ol' pedal-board for the last year and have had no problems.
Yesterday, I  noticed a super high pitch frequency bleeding out of the amp. Sure enough, it is coming out of the ring mod. it is noticeable even when the   bypass switch is engaged, 'eeeeeeeeeehhhh-ing away in the signal chain. I thought I might have kicked or stomped the ol' box to hard, so I popped her off the board, opened the back and tried to adjust the trimmer pot that I thought I may have some how jiggered. It was not that. component gone bad? What say ye brethren of the soldering gun?