Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - BrianS

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 36
Build Reports / Re: Lots of boost, some drive and a flat tyre
« on: February 10, 2020, 02:58:49 PM »

Open Discussion / Re: Dueling Herbies Drill template / guide
« on: February 04, 2020, 08:53:00 PM »
It's a double envelope filter with one filter always swinging up and the other swinging down both in autowah or LFO mode. The filter is a modified take on the Lovetone Meatball.
One thing I did notice, you only put 18 knobs and 6 switches on it. I feel like you weren't really trying. You could get at least 12 more knobs on there.
Iíll make sure to try harder for the Triple Herbies
Challenge accepted. I can't wait to finish it.

Wait till you start playing with this one before you wish for more LOL.  I think I am stuck on turning like 5 knobs and flipping 2 switches.  The rest are just mind boggling  ::).

Open Discussion / Re: Dueling Herbies Drill template / guide
« on: February 04, 2020, 01:27:51 PM »
1590XX is what I used.

Open Discussion / Re: Dueling Herbies Drill template / guide
« on: February 03, 2020, 02:31:58 PM »
If you give me a bit, I can make one up using my Eagle file.
That would be awesome and very kind of you Chris.

Chris is the best.  He must be playing hooky from his teaching duties today. LOL. 

Open Discussion / Re: Dueling Herbies Drill template / guide
« on: February 03, 2020, 11:49:45 AM »
Well I could have sent you my graphic for the one I did but unfortunately it is on my laptop which is dead and my wife thinks she turned the power supply into her school and her IT guy canít find it. 

If know one sends you anything here are the measurements off of mine which should put you close:

This is measured by putting a straight edge against the side of the enclosure and butting a ruler against it.

Row 1 down 24/32
Row 2 down 1 14/32 Switches
Row 3 down 2 4/32
Row 4 down 2 26/32

Knobs and switches Left to right

17/32  1 8/32  1 29/32  2 20/32  3 10/32  4 1/32

Open Discussion / Re: Graphics of Printed Laser Paper
« on: January 29, 2020, 07:35:14 PM »
Those look fantastic. You can get white water slide paper in addition to clear. It really changed how I did things.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah Jim thatís what I used most of the time.  Itís the freaking ink jet cartridge that was the undoing.  I had at least 2 half full black and color cartridges give out on me (my fault for not using them) and this experiment worked well.  The poly gives you plenty of time get it on right and itís really inexpensive. 

Open Discussion / Re: NGD - my dad got me a present
« on: January 29, 2020, 04:21:16 PM »
That must be one of the nicest gifts youíve gotten.  Beautiful instrument.

Open Discussion / Re: Graphics of Printed Laser Paper
« on: January 29, 2020, 04:18:37 PM »
Looks awesome!  Great to see a Dragon Claw and Overload Dual out in the wild!

The Overload is spectacular.  I PMíed you. 

Open Discussion / Graphics on Printed Laser Paper
« on: January 29, 2020, 04:08:34 PM »
Itís been a way long time since Iíve posted something.  Iíve had so many failed builds that I just resigned to really almost stopping completely.  I exclusively used my ink jet printer for decals and the last time I went to try and print one the half full cartridge had dried up and every internet tip I used would not get the ink flowing.  At basically $50 a pop for black and color I was ready to start using a sharpie.  DiabloChris posted a thread using reverse printing on plan paper (laser), water based poly to affix it and rubbing the paper off under water until the graphic came through and then clear coat it.  I did that a couple of times with success.  That turned a light on and I decided to try and do a right side laser paper print, clear coat the graphic, affix it with poly and then clear coat it on the enclosure.  Below are some of the results Iíve had.  If youíre going to try using a white background I would only do it on a white enclosure.  Iíve only tried this when covering the entire face of the enclosure.  The more clear coat you put on after affixing it, I would say 6 coats minimum, the better.  For an .80 cent piece of printed paper at Staples it was well worth it to me.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A suggestion and what I did was bought like 10 of the TO-92s from Smallbear and use them to test the board. Once running I replace them with the SMDs.  Iíve always been afraid of putting to much heat on the SMDs and burning it up. 

Iíve ran through a bunch testing them and they tested no different than the TO-92s.  I had to go through 20 or so to find 3-4 that matched. 

I thought General Guitar Gadgets sold matched sets but they donít anymore.  I know he matched some 5952s for me when I asked.  Also see that he is selling 5457s for .36 each TO92s.

Smallbear sells them also. Theyíre .75 each and real. 

When you say a switch box are you talking about an a/b box?
If you would post a picture it might be easier to see what youíre doing.
And you need a pull down resistor on the positive leg of the led. 

Goggle how to build an a/b switch box and click on images if thatís what your trying to do.  There are some on there that are easy to follow.

Your jack has two solder points, i.e., tip and sleeve.  The tip is the input and the sleeve is ground.  So on your 3pdt board the IJ wire goes to the tip solder point of the input jack. The OJ wire goes to the tip solder joint of your out jack.  V - is your positive  voltage and the wire goes to the + side of your power jack. G- your ground wire goes to the - on your power jack and to the input jack sleeve solder point.  The I wire goes to the input point of your board and the O wire goes to the board output point. 

The reason I asked you to read the tutorial is for you to think of your 3pdt board as nothing more than a 3pdt switch without the board.  Every lug on the switch basically corresponds with your board.  Instead of going to the switch all your points are on the front of your board.

Go here

Thereís a tutorial at the bottom on wiring a 3pdt.

In/out jack tip wire goes to the tip of the respective jack.
In/out wire goes to the in and out on board.
Voltage is positive power.
Ground is self explanatory.

Read the tutorial all the way through and you should have a good understanding of what to do.

Build Reports / Re: Klein Bottle WIP
« on: April 22, 2019, 05:31:37 PM »
Success to you on that monster.  After looking at the build docs and my not so good success rate with the complicated builds I caved and spent the $350 for a finished one.  Still havenít had time to play with it but the YouTube videos sold me on all the things you can do with it.
I must tell you, $350 for a finished one is a very good bargain. I wouldn't be willing to build one of these for someone else for less than $500.

That was another thing I just couldnít get past, the time involved in puttting it together and then just dreading a ďNo Fire Up.Ē  Troubleshooting is not my forte and the thought of over $200 worth of electronic pieces not functioning just didnít sit well. LOL.  Iím sure youíll blow this out of the water though.  I donít post much on here anymore but I do follow things and you put together some really nice stuff.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 36