Topics

Hi All. 

I'd really appreciate some help with a Current Lover 2015 build.  I'd love to add this one to my pedalboard!  It's built using parts from Mouser, Small Bear and Pedal Parts Plus per the BOM (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/CurrentLover/CurrentLover_2015.pdf).  The only position not populated in the pictures is D4 (LFO indicator).  I later soldered it in and that didn't change anything (it lit up steadily though - no pulse ... much like the effect) it's now working as expected!





I have tone through my testing rig in bypass, but SILENCE when the signal is routed to the circuit.  Strangely, when using the testing rig probe, I get tone at the input pads (J1 tip and 3PDT input tip), but nothing on either side of the first resistor on the schematic (R1) ... or the second, etc.

Thanks to alanp and Stomptown, I now a signal through the circuit!  Updated status and plan in my later post below (clean signal, but no effect).

Voltages follow, with some big differences on:
- IC1, pin 3
- IC2, pins 3, 7 and 8
- IC5, pin 7



So far, I've checked parts, orientations and reflowed solder no end, but no joy.  Any help from you wise ones would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Well, I'm not fast, but I'm tenacious!  These have been on my workbench for months.  Finally got all the parts, enclosures, troubleshooting advice, etc., so .... at last .... my latest builds!   



Kingbreaker - Aion Cerulean - built to KOT specs - seriously nice OD

Astrotone - Fuzz Dog PCB - built to "boutique" specs - awesome rawk OD to fuzz

Cardinal - 1776/Patton Cardinal - nice sounding trem, headed for my pedalboard



Bearhug - 1776/Patton Bearhug - subtle comp, just what I've been after

Fo' SHO - rullywow PCB - it's a SHO - bring the thunder!

[Can someone please point out which wires need to be changed to have the LEDs go on when the boosts are ON?]

So ... I'm thinking the answer to this issue might be really straightforward or really complicated, but I can't see it for the life of me.

I've got a Blues Jr with Fat and Clean boosts that can be switched remotely using a TRS pedal (e.g. like the Reverb/Vibrato switch that comes with the Princeton Reverb reissues).  I'm not sure exactly how those switches work (grounding the circuit turns it on?), but I've been using one to trigger my boosts with no problems.  Still, I wanted something with indicator LEDs, so I built this with a Googled plan:







It triggers my boosts with no problems (Yay!!), but the LEDs go on when the boosts are OFF, not ON (groooaaann).   

Can someone please point out which wires need to be changed to have the LEDs go on when the boosts are ON?  Or is it more complicated than that?

Not everyone loves them, but I do!   

https://www.couchguitarstraps.com/

"Use the code BuiltToRock at checkout for 25% off all orders over $25 until midnight PST Friday, July 15th ....and tell a friend!"

No affiliation, just sharing.

Please help me find what I'm missing so I can fix this build!

It's a Marshall Bluesbreaker OD built to King of Tone (KOT) specs provided in the BOM (https://aionelectronics.com/project/cerulean-bluesbreaker-overdrive/).  It includes the clipping diode selection switch and hard clipping mod switch recommended for the KOT.  All parts and connections are per the BOM.

In general terms, I can get bypass signal in my testing rig, but no effect signal.  I've tried probing the circuit and I don't get signal past R4 ... in a circuit-tracing-linear-fashion anyway (i.e I do get signal at other points further along in the circuit). 

I've gone so far as to remove R4, verify its value and put a new verified R4 in place, but soldered one end directly to C5 in case the lack of signal through R4 was due to s PCB error.  No joy. 

I've double-checked my wiring, part values, parts orientations and soldering (still, apologies in advance if you find/point out errors).

DC measurements are as follows:

IC1:
- Pin 1: 4.62
- Pin 2: 4.64
- Pin 3: 4.55
- Pin 4: 0
- Pin 5: 2.37
- Pin 6: 4.74
- Pin 7: 4.74
- Pin 8: 9.28

Q1: N/A (omitted)

Positive lead at jack: 9.32
9V in at board: 9.32
Ground in at board: 0

Photos follow:













Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi All.

I've built up a Weener Wah II and it's DOA signal-wise.  I checked it with my testing rig before boxing and it was passing the test signal, so I thought all was well.  After boxing I'm getting test signal EVERYWHERE I touch the probe except at the output ... and there doesn't seem to be any wah effect added to the test signal.

So, for starters, a couple of questions:

- How far should I disassemble this beast in order to troubleshoot effectively?  Do I need to remove all the offboard wiring options?

- Is there a way to check the wah inductor once installed on the board to see if it's passing signal correctly (i.e. to check that I used the right holes for that inductor)?

Any advice or direction would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi All.

I've got a couple of pedal builds that don't get much above bypass unity with effect at max volume.   One is a BYOC Tonebender (my 1st build ever!) and an Aion Canned Yam (NE-1 EQ). 

I'm thinking that I might be able to fix this volume issue by installing a small, clean boost circuit between the effect "Out" and the switch.  Am I missing anything obvious?  I mean, this should give me more volume to work with when the effect is on, right?

Also, if this would work, can anyone give me a recommendation for a very small, clean (and preferably very quiet and tone-neutral) clean boost that I could fit into a 1590B with these circuits?  The one I'm considering is this: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2013/04/escobedo-duende-jfet-jhs-minibomb.html

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi All.

I've populated one of Rullywow's "DC-R Comp" (DynaComp version) PCB's (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17134.msg163123#msg163123)), but I'm getting zero sound when I try to rock before boxing. 

Using an audio probe, I get a signal as far as pin 2 of Q1 (2N5088), but I get no signal on pins 1 or 3.  I've swapped in 5 different diodes, but still nothing.

Is it possible that I've got 5 bad diodes or should I be looking somewhere else for the problem.

Any and all help appreciated.

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi All.

I got the big red warning - "Warning ... please consider starting a new topic" - when I went to reply to/seek help in the "Best Klon mods for bass" thread (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17386.msg166145#msg166145), so here's a new thread.

I picked up one of Rej's Tusk PCB's in the recent GB (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=19838.0) and I'd like to build it for bass instead of guitar.  I've done some searching, followed some suggestions/links from others (thanks JR!) and distilled the available wisdom down to three options:

1. Minimalist: just change the input cap (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14165.0 and http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=16153.msg154096#msg154096)
2. Mostly IC's: change out the IC's, 2 caps and 1 resistor (which - interestingly - doesn't include the input cap (http://www.talkbass.com/threads/klon-klone-mods-for-bass.1119828/#post-16693736))
3. Sunking II: change out 12 caps and 1 resistor (which - again - doesn't include the input cap (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Sunking2/Sunking2.pdf))

I've annotated a Sunking II schematic with these changes:



I plan on transferring these to the Tusk schematic before doing the build, BUT ... I'd appreciate ANY advice or recommendations from ANYONE who's already done this or knows something about electronics : which option would you recommend?

I can fumble around with a soldering iron or guitar alright, but I can't claim any real electronics knowledge .... 

Hi All.

I'm looking to build a Flintlock Flanger (http://lectric-fx.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/FlintlockFlanger_V1.2.pdf), but couldn't find the 1N5817 diodes at Small Bear.  I asked and they wrote back "If you are using the 1N5817 for reverse-polarity protection, use the 1N5818, my SKU 2215A. Will work identically for that purpose."  So ... sorry for the newbie question  ... but: am I just using the 1N5817 diodes for reverse-polarity protection?  I'd appreciate receiving some wisdom on this point.

Thanks, Bruce.

I've been trying to learn CCR songs lately and needed a tremolo effect to get me in the ballpark sound-wise.

I built up a JMK PCB's Classic Tremolo with graphics inspired by a boutique reverb I'd seen that fitted the effect:





2 LEDs: 1 for on/off, 1 for rate.

I had some trouble with nasty cracking, popping, grounding-type noise, but it turned out to be a trannie siting loose in a socket (solved with hot glue).

Much thanks to Jacob (jkokura) and Ben (rullywowr) for some coaching and confidence-building on this one.

Great little effect!

Hi All.

My third build, but it took longer to get posted than builds 4 and 5 due to an enclosure re-do (boost before fuzz really didn't sound great, plus hole arrangement/spacing was off).  As the title says, it's a 2-in-1 build of a Madbean Mangler and Madbean Range Master along with a GGG charge pump so it can be run off a "regular" 9V supply.  Trannies from Small Bear.  Effect combination and graphic inspired by a similar offering from a boutique pedal maker.





Thanks to Felix, Jacob, Andre and Jon for responding to my posts for tech support on this build:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14048.msg130473#msg130473
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14478.msg135092#msg135092

Very much appreciated guys.

I REALLY like this pedal.  Super fun to play: classic rock and indie rock tones all over the place.  Effects sound great separately and combined.  Pedal sounds great straight into amp and through an overdrive too!

Thanks Madbean!

[Madbean Yellow Shark]

Just so I'm not only posting in the tech support forum!

A couple of recent builds:

Madbean Yellow Shark

 

I'm SUPER happy with this pedal.  I built it a couple of months ago on a PCB by Haberdasher and I play it all the time.  I'm still blown away that I built a pedal and it worked.  The original is described as sounding and reacting like small vintage combo with nicely worn tubes and speakers.  I've gotta say, I've got a reproduction late-40's National Supreme amp that breaks up like bliss with a clean boost in front and this sounds even better!  Highly recommended!!

Madbean Slow Loris

 

Ever wondered what all the fuss was about Rats?  Build this.  It's awesome.  It's crazy.  It's flexible.  It's everything they say and more: overdrive through distortion goodness.  It's fun in a box!!  Seriously, I can't play this without grinning.  I don't think it's just me.

Please help this lowly novice:

I built myself a Pork Barrel.

 

It worked on my testing rig, then I tried to put it in my too small first etched enclosure (urgh!).



Now it no longer works in the testing rig! (tested it while waiting for a bigger enclosure to arrive, urrrgggh!)



I measured the following voltages:

IC1 (JRC4558D)

1: 4.54
2: 4.54
3: 4.47
4: 0
5: 4.51
6: 4.54
7: 4.54
8: 9.2

IC2 (TL062)

1: 1.7-7.6
2: 4.52-4.64
3: 3.17-5.99
4: 0
5: 4.52.4.63
6: 3.24
7: 3.27-5.82
8: 9.2

IC3 (MN3101)

1: 6.82
2: 0
3: 0
4: 6.8
5: 6.74
6: 0
7: 5.95
8: 0.45

IC4 (MN3007)

1: 6.87
2: 6.83
3: 3.78
4: 0.45
5: 0
6: 0
7: 5.97
8: 5.32

Q1:
C: 9.18
B: 2.55
E: 3.44

Q2:
C: 9.18
B: 3.88
E: 3.78

Q3:
C: 9.88
B: 3.11
E: 3.55

Q4:
C: 5.09
B: 0.63
E: 0

Q5:
C: 6.0
B: 2.7-4.8
E: 6.8

Does anything stand out?  Something solvable?  Any assistance would be appreciated.  I liked the effect when it worked!

Thanks!

Help please!  I'm still new.  I've got a bad feeling that I messed up.  I just can't figure out where ...

I've populated a Madbean Mangler PCB, mostly following the build document:







The PNP "All American" Ge transistors came from Small Bear, with the following values noted on the package:

Q1: 91, L=169
Q2: 136, L=120

The Ge transistors came with the carbon comp resistor values used to bias them to Fuzz face specs and these were my only deviations from the standard BOM.  I made a solid newbie effort to read the "Bear Face" (https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/BearFace/BearFace.htm) and Mangler (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Mangler/docs/Mangler.pdf) schematics to match the Small Bear resistor numbers to those of Madbean and came up with the following:

Small Bear (resistor # and biased value)      Madbean (resistor # and stock value)
R3=27k                     R2=33k
R4=680R                     R4=470R
R5=9.1k                     R3=220R
R6=91k                     R1=100k

Again, I used Small Bear's resistor values in the build ... and checked and double checked all values with a multimeter (even had them re-ship one resistor because they'd provided a very different value than what was recorded on the spec sheet).

ANYWAY ... I tried to rock it before I boxed it using a test rig:



I could hear my guitar!  That seemed good!  But, it kinda went downhill from there:

There was no "fuzz" when I played through the test rig.  Hmmm.

Then, when I attempted to bias the build per Madbean specs, I got +3.3V to +0.37V at the extremes of the bias pot.  The readings were supposed to be negative.  Oh, oh ...

Finally, I noticed the Fuzz and Volume knobs have no effect on the guitar tone to the amp; it just sounds like a bypass signal.  Urggh!

Here are some voltage readings.  I reversed lead placement due to reverse polarity of the circuit.  Hopefully this is correct:

Voltage readings (red lead to ground):

9V in at board: -6.14V
Ground in at board: zero

Transistor Voltage readings (red lead to ground):

Q1 (2N527):

C: +0.31
B: +0.39
E: +0.29

Q2 (2N404A)

C: +0.22
B: +0.03
E: zero

I'm not sure what to do next.  It seems like such a simple circuit.  Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

Thanks, Bruce.

Hi All.

A newbie question for you.  I'm starting to collect parts for an Aion Refractor (Klone) build.  The BOM calls for 27nF and 390 nF box capacitors.  These values aren't stocked at Small Bear.  Would 22nF and 330 nF be close enough to not change the character of the pedal or should I always match values?

Similarly, for resistors, is it close enough to choose resistor values within the +/-% tolerance range of the one called for in a BOM or should you always match to maintain the target tone?

I'd appreciate some of your wisdom on this.

Thanks!  Bruce.

Hi Madbeaners,

I'm building a 2-in-1 Madbean Mangler/Rangemaster with a General Guitar Gadgets charge pump changing +9V DC to -9V DC.  I've searched for wiring schematics and distilled what I've seen to the attached sketch.



I'd really appreciate it if some of you wiser and experienced folks could let me know if I've got it right before I wire it up and connect the power.  Sorry it's a bit rough.  It seemed easier to draw freehand that CAD'ing ...

Thanks, Bruce.

I've been a forum lurker here for about 6 months.  I've seen a lot of amazing pedal builds posted, complex and clean.  They set the bar pretty high.  Here's my first attempt at a Madbean build and my second pedal build overall:  a Sea Urchin Delay with tap tempo using a Haberdasher-etched Sea Urchin PCB with a JMK PCB's Modulating Taptation board.  No the gutshot isn't too pretty, but maybe it'll give some hope to my fellow beginners out there.    If I can do it, anyone can!





Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the pedal.  The only other delay I've ever had is a Keely-modded Boss DD-3.  This seems pretty hi-fi compared to that - especially with humbuckers - but this is less noticeable with single coils.  It also sounds almost like a reverb plus delay instead of just delay, again less so with single coils.  I'm curious if other builders have noticed this.

Tap tempo delays are pretty pricey for me, especially as a novice guitar player.  I don't think I ever would have had one if I didn't build it myself.  It's been fun playing with this pedal.  The dotted 8th setting make me sound like the Edge! ... if he played slower and made lot's of mistakes.  LOL

It started up pretty well ... after I remembered to insert the IC's (yep, I really am a beginner).  There was quite a lot of pop when stomped on until I put 1 M resistors on the in/out jacks.  It also stopped working after a few weeks (no repeats), but came back to life when I put a jumper across pins 3 and 4 of the PT2399 IC.  I wouldn't have known to do any of this without the Madbean forum.  Thanks to all.

Hi All.  I'm a new member here and pretty new to guitar and effects, but enjoying learning and playing.  I'm looking to get started in pedal building with some different Ge fuzzes.  I've read a lot about how these are best powered by non-alkaline batteries, but I'd like the option of not having to unplug patch cords to stop the batteries from draining.  I've read through all the beginner's paradise posts and found nothing on this topic and struck out with searches too, so .... here goes:  

1) Is it possible to use an on-off pot with a fuzz project without altering the tone or do I need to use a mini-toggle?

2) If it is possible to use an on-off pot, does it matter if I use it for Volume, Tone or Fuzz and can anyone point me to a retailer that carries them? (didn't see anything at Small Bear)

3) I'm guessing an on-off pot would be wired the same as a regular one, but can anyone point me to a dummy-proof wiring diagram for an on-off mini-toggle?  (sorry, this last noob question is painful even for me to read).

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

Great forum by the way.  Amazing knowledge base and nice sense of community in the Q+A's.