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Ooh, that's very neat. Which IC is the CS-505 based on? I've got a schematic for the CS9, but not the 505.

The CS-505 is based on the MN3007/MN3101 combo. Everything else is pretty standard op-amps.
It's by far the most difficult build I've ever done; I have the CS-505 service manual and created a new PCB that would fit in a 125-B enclosure. I removed some tracings that weren't needed and moved a few pads around to get it small enough. There were some oddball cap values that I had to special order and some transistors/diodes that I had to get modern equivalents of, but it's done and works 100%.

Excellent point.
This is actually a reverse-engineering that I did of an Ibanez CS-505.
I removed the buffer/switching portion, wired it up with true bypass, added a trimpot at the end (to adjust the volume boost) and have it powered with 18V using the RR.

I didn't add the 1M pull-down at the input, so that could very well be it. Thanks!

Side note: the 505 sounds awesome. Incredibly close to the vintage one I used to have.

Thanks Thomas - I had that planned out this morning, after thinking about it a bit more.
The odd thing is that the popping is intermittent. I'll disconnect the LED tonight and report back.

I'm using the Road Rage as an internal voltage doubler in a chorus pedal, but have a question about grounding.
From the DC jack, the 9V(+) goes to the corresponding pad on the RR, but does the (-) on the jack just go to ground?
Long story short, the LED in my chorus pedal is wired directly to the 9V+ / - on the DC jack. I'm getting popping when I switch the effect on/off. I'm wondering if it's because the LED is 9V, the chorus circuit sees 18V and they're all on the same ground.

Any ideas?
Thanks,
Buck

12V
Are certain op-amps potentially noisier (4558 vs TL072)?
If the diodes near the charge pump were an area that has had a fix, could the wiring to the DC jack need to be shielded too?
Just trying to think of possible noise breaches; seems like several users have had some issues getting 100% noise-free.

Bumping this one with an update.
It's a little difficult to change the switch lugs WITHOUT crossing them somewhere; either between the board and the switch, or between the switch and the in/out jacks.
I've tried two different MN3007's and it didn't make much difference. In the end, I used shielded wire going to/from the board to the footswitch.
That cut out most (but not all) of the clock noise. I might try shielding the footswitch/in-out jack wiring as well.

LOL - spoke too soon - I just saw the 'your package has shipped' e-mail!
Thanks!

If it's already been said, I must have missed it: when will boards ordered this week ship?

Sharkfin ordered!

Not something that I'd use all the time, but a lot of fun to have around.

Bumping this one as an update.

I used PC-mount pots and did the 100uF (C26) and 1N5817 (D4 and D5) mods; this cleaned the noise up considerably.
I'm still getting a WEE bit of a static-like tick and can hear the analog 'swoosh' a bit, but it's not nearly as bad as it once was.

Quick question: the output and input pads on the PCB are opposite from each other in that they HAVE to cross when connecting to the footswich (or at least the leads when running from switch-to-input/output jacks). So does it matter (noise-wise) at what point they cross? Anybody cured all noise using shielded wire?
Also, for those of you who use this circuit with a 3PDT footswitch, are you doing the 'grounded input' config, or regular (with the LED on the 3rd legs)?

Thanks,

Thanks again - get some rest and have another look whenever you have time. I've got a few other projects to finish up first, but would really like to take a serious swing at this one.
I don't necessarily NEED the 'intense' mode, if that helps any. I just want the flanger and the filter option.

I'm in the process of finishing up an Ibanez CS-505 Chorus (mono) that I rev-engineered using the original PCB layout. Instead of using an 18V power supply externally, it has a RoadRage board internal to double the 9V to 18V.
I was about to do the same on an FL-301 Flanger and decided to take a look at the FL99 again first.

Take care,
Buck

What project is it out of interest? There may be other options.

Thanks.

The project is (deep breath) an Ibanez FL99 Classic Flanger (the big one in the silver box, four knobs, made in the late 90's). I've owned two and they are fabulous units, but a bit large and pricey; I sold each at different times when I really needed the money. I was going to build one for a 1590Q enclosure (same length as a 1590BB, but square). I want to rewire it so the 'Filter' toggle is on the 2nd footswitch instead of 'Intense' (which I never used).
I've already worked out most of the other parts of the layout, but stopped working on it when I couldn't find ANY leads on a 3210.

The problem is, the original takes an MN3210 (dual 512-stage IC), which is harder to find than the FL99 itself. I was going to get two MN3204's (single 512 ICs) and design the BBD part of the PCB so they make the same connections as the dual stages of the 3210.
I've been able to find MN3204's, but they're pricey too but still cheaper than an FL99. (For two 3204's, it would still be less than 1/3 of what an FL99 might cost when they come up). I was going to see if the MN3207 (1024-stage) could be halved, then use two of those. They're all in the MN32xx family, so they should all be able to run on the MN3102 clock driver and same voltage polarity.
I think using two MN3204's would be the easiest solution, but finding a way to use two MN3207's would be cheaper.

What do you think?

Is there a way to use just half the number of stages in a BBD? I was wondering if that's what designers are doing when they modify a unit (particularly flangers) to use an MN3007 (just guessing).

How is that done, exactly? I'm asking because I'm having problems finding a particular 512-stage IC for a new project and was wondering if I could get the same results by using a 1024-stage IC and halving the stages.

thx

Ok, any hints as to what this one is based on?

Thanks Scruffie

I'm using a BBE SupaCharger that has isolated outputs, plus I tried an Ibanez AC109; both had the same results.

I've got the PC-mount pots incoming and will be working this out in a new case.
I'll report back after that.

Thanks again,
Buck