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Working on a Wigl board and ran out of 3mm LEDs. I had enough for D2 and D3 but wondering if a diffused 5mm red will be ok for LED3 which drives the photocells. Any potential problems with that or should I just be patient and order more 3mm leds?

Anyone tried or know how to mod this to make the speed go reeeeally slow?

I don't ever put the speed knob above 2 o'clock but I often wish I could make it go a lot slower than it does at the lowest point. So I'd like to make the current 2 o'clock position roughly the max speed and the lowest speed setting to be a heck of a lot slower.

So, how can I accomplish this? Change of pot value? change a few resistors? Is it possible? is it too complex that I shouldn't even bother?

FYI I'm using this for my bass rig as it was the best sounding phase (IMO) for bass. I have a bad stone, small stone, phase 95, phase 100, and Digitech SP-7 stereo phaser. I'm building a guitar pcb Dr. Phybes (90 w/ a script switch) for a friend and will be building myself a madbean smoothie (phase 45) in the near future. So if you're going to suggest using a different phase effect, don't bother cause this one is staying whether I can mod it or not  ...unless the smoothie beats it of course. 

This was a Slow Loris build I did for my brother. Sounds glorious.

It didn't come without challenges though. The enclosure was a predrilled mammoth electronics 1590b that I already had around. Their placement of the DC jack (top and slightly left) and LED didn't exactly make things easy on the inside. I didn't post a gutshot cause frankly I'm embarrassed at how ugly it looks inside. In order to fit it in the 1590b I had to forego using pcb mount pots  cause the dc jack sits just above and slightly over the top left pot. As a result of that I needed to flip the board upside down and rotate it 90 degrees in order for it to sit flush. Components were too tall otherwise with 16mm lug pots, dc jack overhang and in/out jack placements. I drilled the hole for the clipping switch in the most convenient place I could think of without potential for getting stepped on and that ended up being slightly to the left but not terrible.

I had a minor miswire (learning experience) as I had a bunch of leftover white wire that I used to do the whole thing. All wires being the same color and as messy as the inside was I'm surprised it was only the one mistake. In the end it was an easy fix. It's all a tight fit but I taped the interior of the bottom plate and used drops of silicon adhesive and shrink sleeving to prevent any shorts.

All buttoned up you would never know the mess that lies inside. Ha ha. Looks good on the outside and sounds fantastic which is all that matters really.

Knobs ended up being (L to R) volume and gain on top row and cut and sweep on bottom. Which is an arrangement that I prefer actually.

Thanks for looking. Hope to post another build soon.

I've got little to no space on my pedalboard and I am building a type of stereo ABY switch. What I'd like to do is mount the main components in a 1590B enclosure under the pedal board and use a TRS cable (doesn't have to be TRS but that's how I am assuming it'll work) to connect remotely to the footswitch housed in a 1590LB enclosure on top of the pedalboard.

Is it possible? if so, how?

I'd like the 1590LB enclosure to also house a LED so I know which setting I am on and I believe by using TRS I wouldn't need power running to the 1590LB if its connected to the 1590B below. I wouldn't mind running 9v to the 1590LB but less mess up top would be preferred. While a stereo ABY switch could be completely passive and require no power at all, I still would like the LED indication if it doesn't add too much complexity.

The Dr. Scientist spectrum analyzer... it doesn't really do anything for your sound but it sure does look cool.

https://www.prymaxe.com/collections/dr-scientist-sounds/products/dr-scientist-sounds-spectrum-analyzer?variant=22886665025

I'm a bit of noob to DIY pedal effects but surely this cannot be that difficult to build. Any experts out there willing to help?

Anyone tried fitting a cupcake or other baby board into a 1590LB? I'm thinking if it's at all possible I will need to leave the footswitch out entirely thus the effect will always be on. Or maybe use one of those on/off potentiometers.  The ones that click off when turned all the way down. Thoughts?

Somewhat of noob here. A few tech questions.

1- I'm wanting to put 2-3 fx (Boost, OD, env. Filter) in one enclosure. They all run on 9v (one is a naughty fish) I'm just wondering how I can power them all using one power input. Should I use a road rage? Can I just wire them all to the same 9v input? What if I want to run one effect at 18v and the other 2 at 9v?

2-wiring inputs to outputs. Can I just run the wires from one board to the other? I.e. Tip out to tip in, sleeve out to sleeve in?

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks everyone.