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I only skimmed the Tayda instructions, but I see nothing that you wouldn't be able to with Inkscape.

[or played a clone with the incorrect parts values]

I wouldnt mind betting that half the trash talked about the Brown Source is by people who never played one, never applied it in the intended fashion, or played a clone with the incorrect parts values.

I doubt this is the case here, the correct values have been known for quite some time, verified by yourself. At the same time, I wouldn't dismiss the possibility of the other values being used in another version of the pedal. Switching those two 22n to 220n will only make a real difference in the particular switch position.  The later 22n in conjunction with the 330k forms highpass of 22Hz, so already two octaves below the guitar. Changing that to 220n for a highpass of 2Hz doesn't do anything to the sound.
The pedal really only works as a booster, playing it into a clean amp is a fizzling annoyance. The fact that it doesn't get much praise among players is no surprise to me, it doesn't do anything special most other overdrives can't do as well, but they also have the possibility to properly distort the signal. It is the very opposite of all the other Lovetone pedals: very limited sound possibilites, very limited scope.

If you want to match SMD JFETs, consider buying this. The adapter can be bought without pcb too, but then you need to make one yourself, or solder wires to the pins, since they are not in the standard 0.1 format.

Bias network can be removed, add filter capacitor for negative rail, use negative supply on opamps, reference JFET input and opamps to ground, connect JFET source to negative supply.

I actually quite like SMT soldering. I'm faster and it feels like a simpler process. But I have been doing it for all my electronic life.

One story from a tube old-timer comes to my mind: he told about when noval tubes were introduced. People of that time, used to octals and even larger, complained about this miniature stuff, who would want to deal with something that tiny! 

Yes, drain and source are wrong in the schematic. Protection diode: never used one. BS250 has +-25V_GS, the MOSFET I use has +-20V. So far no problems...

A friend of mine who sells repaired vintage amps regularly always makes a video of him playing and demonstrating that everything works perfectly. Maybe for the true specialists one could include where to put which cable...

To me there is a difference between pedals for playing live, and pedals for messing around at home or recording. I would never take any Lovetone on a stage, too much nuance is wasted there anyway. They are just fun toys to play with by myself or for a recording situation. That is where I want all the possibilities they can offer.

You just need to add one transistor. This avoids the problem of having to accomodate the resistor for both the zener current and your circuit. Make the resistor 1-2k, the capacitor is for filtering the zener diode noise, 100n will do. For the transistor use any standard high-beta type, BC550C or similar. If you want to have 3V, you need to add one V_BE drop to the zener diode, so use a 3,6V or 3,9V. Or add a silicon or schottky diode in series, depending on where you want to land exactly.

The other advantage of this circuit is it is more stable and less load-dependent.

I don't understand. I see more than ten different 2,7k resistors with 0,5W or 0,6W available in singles.

If it really was Mouser's intention to get rid of single part sales, I think they would start with 0201 SMD parts...

I have a couple of old Boss and EHX pedals, plus some more modern crap, other than that everything I have and use is DIY. Boss to me is the pedal archetype, the compact boxes, the consistent look in all the different colours, I really like them. The vintage EHX stuff I have in comparison oozes cheap to me, I'm not really too fond of them. The mechanics, the look, the thin sheet metal boxes, I've just never really been a fan.

The only pedals I would ever see myself buying if they were available is Lovetone. The creativity and plethora of sounds out of analog pedals they achieved is unrivalled to me. Plus again, nice consistent boxes in pretty colours. Seems to be something I value  .

From the stuff I actually play, I couldn't really make out a favourite brand. It is a fairly mixed affair with all sorts of stuff including DIY circuits, no brand really standing out. Closest to my heart really are the Lovetones I've built, even though I don't use them all that often.

Ok then let's agree to disagree on the current draw. Regarding the input impedance: erm... no that's wrong. The value in the datasheet is the input impedance running the opamp open loop, which means no feedback applied. So that is not the input impedance of any practical circuit. Once the loop is closed, which of course is the case in pretty much all applications, the input impedance is a lot higher than that. It is not possible to blankly state the input impedance in the datasheet, because it depends on the circuit the opamp is put in.

It is roughly the open loop gain times the applied gain times the open loop input impedance. So for the NE5532, that would be 100,000 x 300,000kOhm x gain. As you can see, its input impedance is far from "very low". Other opamps will produce similar numbers, even ones that are older and worse. That's why we can always safely assume that the input impedance of a non-inverting amplifier stage is the same as the bias resistor (in parallel to maybe other stuff).

I think I saw somebody do exactly that in one of the build threads. But if you have a printer, designing that would be a matter of minutes in Fusion 360 or Freecad.

Not sure how Github factors into all of this. If you have found a design on there just download it. As long as you don't want to contribute to a project you don't need to concern yourself with all the version control stuff and command line headaches  .

> I refer to the 1Hz bandwidth at 1kHz that rating is taken at which isn't very realistic in practice.
I still don't understand. That number is a way to compare different opamps, and gives you the information you need to calculate the actual noise in your circuit.

> The NE5532 has its own quirks, very low input impedance
You've stated that before, and when I asked you to explain how you came to that conclusion you didn't answer unfortunately. Please do  .

> not to mention massive current draw
For the dual the supply current is 16mA, I certainly wouldn't call that massive. A PT2399 is about the same, a Spin FV-1 takes 55mA. Some people drive their bypass LEDs harder than that , a bypass relay takes way more current as well. I really don't think there is any problem with that.

> There's no one size fits all if you get to the nitty gritty which is why there's so many op amps to chose from
Well yes of course. Engineering is the art of finding a workable compromise from conflicting requirements, same goes for choosing an opamp. But it's usually not too hard to find a solution that doesn't suck.