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Messages - LaceSensor

#16
Hi

I am endeavouring upon a project to build a Danelectro style guitar - yes, with the plywood and masonite etc.
I have looked at the original Dano wiring and understand how it works. For those unfamiliar, its two single coil "lipstick" pickups with Volume and Tone for each. The pots are stacked dual concentric, there is one 100k/1M stacked pot for each pickup, volume (100k) and tone (1M). The tone cap for the neck pickup is 0.047 uF, and the bridge pickup tone cap is 0.01 uF. The pickup-selector toggle switch is a single pole on-off-on switch, offering the following sounds:
•   Bridge pickup alone
•   Bridge + neck pickup in series
•   Neck pickup alone

The wiring is as such: with the bridge pickup engaged, the neck pickup is shorted out with its hot and ground connected, and the bridge pickup is directly connected to the output. With the neck pickup engaged, the output of the bridge volume pot is connected to ground. In the middle position, both pickups are connected in series.



T ofhe issue is two fold - those type pots are comparatively very expensive, and Dano used custom ones with 100k/1M in the stack. So I cant actually find them and even non-custom ones are more than the rest of the materials for the guitar.
I want to keep the clean "two knob" look but simplify to a master volume and tone, while retaining the series switching which is part of the charm.

Would this make sense in that case?


I can make pedals but wiring guitars gives me a headache, especially understanding series/parallel, coil splits etc.

A spare set of eyes would be welcome! cheers


#17
Quote from: Bio77 on August 27, 2023, 06:01:44 PM
That's bananas! Good score  8)  What delay chip is it using?

XVIVE MN3007 reissue at 15v
#18
Open Discussion / Re: JHS relaunches Ross pedals
August 27, 2023, 04:26:41 PM
This whole palava left me more than cold.

Reissues of Ross pedals arent worth £169, and each one has an equivalent from another vendor I would rather purchase, especially at the price

I used to own the "v3" Chorus, inc all blue and the black with yellow label Distortion. 
Chorus was £15. I true bypassed it. I recorded some early stuff with it in my teens.
I them 4 years ago for about 10X what I paid for them
https://reverb.com/uk/item/25150297-ross-chorus-blue  Its a CE-2 ish chorus, big wow!
The Disto went for £97.
https://reverb.com/uk/item/25150255-ross-distortion-1981-black

I think I won :) especially as I dont miss them, and if this hypes the originals up, it wont be the first time I havent maximised on profiteering and I am sure I will live 
#19
Quote from: jimilee on August 27, 2023, 04:10:52 PM
Very very cool. I spied 126 resistors. If it gets cloned, good luck with that! [emoji1787] it looks like it has lots of possibilities there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It does absolutely everything and more. Except stereo :)
Apparently there are like 350 parts, and up to maybe 400 in the other units. Its insane.

#20
Another day another chorus pedal. This time, the Asheville Music Tools ACV-1
https://www.ashevillemusictools.com/products/acv-1

To say this one is special would be an understatement. I have been looking into the AMpT Asheville pedals for some time but never pulled the trigger as in the UK with the import fees it's kinda insane. Also I was waiting for the flanger which was the last release and the video demos left me colder than I was expecting - I said to a friend at the time I actually prefer the chorus.

I picked this up locally, so local the guy was just down the road and dropped it round by hand - good service! It was significantly cheaper than acquiring one new. The box is standard but it comes in a nice suede bag thing which was cute.

The pedal itself is a marvel of engineering and no I haven't had time/courage to take it apart. Suffice to say there are many hundreds of SMD parts ripe for Behringer to clone here. The fact they squeeze all this into a standard Hammond case is beyond me. The efforts for shielding and signal screening while a bit rustic on first glance clearly are effective (theres copper tape round the I/O ribbon, and a laminated metal sheet under the jacks).

The sound itself is continuously varying - the LFOs are beautiful and distinct. It is capable of chorus flanging and doubling in much the same way the Lovetone Flange with No Name is/was (I've got one of those too so I know what I am hearing is legit).

I haven't found a dud sound, it can go to the borders of oscillation not quite as crazily as the Lovetone unit but very much in the same realm of warble-siren. For classic 80s chorus this has it all in spades and so much more. I cant think of a chorus tone you couldnt acheive here, and with the mix control you can also go pure pitch vibrato.

My only critique is two fold: I have a strange affection for stereo and this is mono. Also it would have been cool to have a second footswitch to replace the polarity switch (similar to the original FoxRox TZF, again one of my favourite permanent collection).

Bottom line is this is the crème of analog chorus modulators in a surprisingly compact package and if you can afford one please buy one cos no one's cloning this anytime soon. For me the online videos didnt do this justice, and perhaps dont do the other pedals in the line justice either. I will certainly jump on the delay if I ever see one more affordable than new....
#21
Build Reports / Re: Some builbs
August 11, 2023, 01:57:44 AM
OS-2 was my first dirt pedal probabably like 25 years ago
I actually own two Boss originals cos I sometimes have a fly board and its such a part of "me" as a sound - I always come back to that as my filth setting irrespective of whatever other multitude of dirt pedals I have around (which is a couple dozen probably).

Really cool builds.



PS: Sorry to hear you arent feeling stellar.
Ill add to the pile at the risk of this becoming "sad pedal builders anonymous" that this year has felt particularly challening for me. While I wouldnt say I am clinically depressed I have felt a struggle. Not sure if its cos I turn 40 (tommorrow.... :( ) and am aware of mortality (parents declining health and repeat oncology surgeries) or the fact my cat has been on the watch list for at least 3 years now and thats coming to a head...or other stuff that I probably dont want to write here regards my closest family. But hey, Ive started collecting and modding cheap guitars and thats been nice. I dont build many pedals at all these days which I do miss and maybe adds to the sads a bit.
#22
Quote from: danfrank on August 07, 2023, 03:25:23 PM
If I built it again I would leave it out, the levels are well matched but I didn't know this going into the build.

re-read the accompanying literature, I missed that first pass some weeks ago.
Yeah I honestly dont think its needed, but thats a more elegant approach than the totally redundant super volume boost found on the "string ringer" clones
#23
Ironically,  I just gutted and did some fancy wiring on a very cheap strat copy, with super 4p5t switching, coil tapping, series/paralleling and have literally zero issues. And yet, this 2 pickup single toggle was a bear.

#24
rad
#25
cool. curious how and why you implemented a level control?
#26
Quote from: gordo on July 21, 2023, 04:22:20 PM
What does the auxiliary switch do?  Otherwise it seems very Ibanez-ish.

series / parallel switch
#27
I got it figured out

Cheers if you had a look and were (at first, maybe) as confused as me!
#28
Hi all

I am intrigued by the Charvel DK24 HH pickup switching options.



I have scoured the internet for a wiring diagram and happened across this



My issue is I dont have the original pickups to play with (which are expensive SD units)
I do however have some Duncan Design 4-wire humbuckers to experiment on!

Main problem however seems to be the way the hot and coloured wires work on the Duncan Designs
The SD have the North Start (Black) as Hot, and the South Start (Green) as ground
The Dunc Design have the North Start (Black) as Ground, and the South Start (Green) as hot

Would it be so simple as, following the wiring diagram, swapping around the green and black wires?
I assume this, if it worked, would just mean the positions as it relates to the specific "inner/outer" coil that was active might just be flipped over from pos 2 and pos 4 on the selector switch...?

I am hopefully reliably informed that all humbuckers have the same "orientation" of the coils meaning North is always slug, South is Screws

Any help would be much appreciated as Ive never attempted wiring something so complicated and the diagram isnt exactly the best (!)

Cheers
#30
Im not the person youre after but those are some nice looking COB clones
Are you able to share any details on that?

Cheers