Topics

Hi

Kinda wierd, not sure why I am sharing this, but this was a boost for me at a low point.
I was asked to submit this pedal for a review, I didnt chase them, which was suprising. I am naively navigating this world, and assumed you had to have "connections" or bribe someone for such articles...

Anyway, I was also beyond chuffed with the scores across the board. It is somewhat validating for me at a time right now when I am trying to do something new with my life.

Cheers
Ian

https://www.premierguitar.com/reviews/pedals/gigahearts-hyper-soup-review

What are people thinking about the latest Big Muff out there ?
https://jhspedals.info/products/big-muff-2

JHS x EHX have put out a second collaboration, borne out of Bob Myers rotting garage.
The video is worth a watch, mostly to see how endearing Bob is and how unpretentious he is about everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ykqj6ccts5U&t=66s

Ive breadboarded the circuit as it appeared on the hand written notes and its pretty interesting.
Like a couple of the demo-ers on YT noted (example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9HjfNVVrS8), its strong on bass side and there is an undercurrent of fatness that I would say is almost omnipresent, with a middy-fuzz on top. You can hear that around 19 mins or so in the video - super interesting.

The sustain is pretty high from the offset, and adds some sizzle and hair as you up it. I wouldnt say the gain or for that matter the volume is in any way lacking. I played around with making the first gain (sustain) stage higher gain and didnt feel it was helpful. Even at max sustain now, you get some motorboarding artefacts - again seen in the video above around 18mins in.

Overall a fun addition to the lore of EHX Big Muff, not sure its that exciting to justify the $250 price point and I would have rather they did something more "out there", but maybe there is a more to come after they test the water with a low-barrier, high selling item like a fuzz/distortion.


Aside:

I decided to make a PCB for myself as an Xmas project because I cant justify buying new pedals right now, and having shared that a few people asked for one. I've therefore made a small pre-order for some standard 3pdt-type boards (rather than my own relay one) for sale. Let me know if you want to grab one.

Heres mine....
How would you approach that?!

"I would be interested in a pedal featuring:

 • 1x mono/stereo line input

 • 6x mono/stereo Sends with Level control for each one of them (if possible I'd like to also have a tunable HPF before each Send)

 • 6x mono/stereo Returns with Level control for each one of them

 • Phase reverse switch for every Return

 • Soft-touch (click-free) footswitches to Mute/Un-mute the returns

 • Dry blend control knob

 • Master level control knob with boost capability (+18dB)

 • Pan(L/R) knob for the output

 • 1x stereo line output with isolation in both channels

 • 2 x XLR outputs (for L & R) possibly with optional 20dB attenuation switch and ground lifts for both XLRs

 • Buffered inputs & outputs

 • Flat response in the whole 20Hz-20kHz range

 • I need the device to be able to handle eurorack signals (at least 10Vpp) and even higher if possible (20Vpp)"

If anyone is up for the challenge let me know
Also, use the thread to share your wildest requests?

Cheers,
Ian 

Had a request to adjust the sweep range of this project .
https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/FrequencyInterchange-PedalPCB.pdf

Does anyone have a good calculator for the type of LPF and HPF here? Im comfortable with one-potentiometer LP circuits, but these are dual-gang and I am not sure how to adjust the capacitors/resistors to effect the change.

The desired range is LP - 1k to 6k HP 30-250hz

Thanks for your help

Ian

Hello folks!

Here's one that I made for me for a bit of fun. I have always thought the Square wave fuzz on the MicroSynth was a really cool thing, and this secures that for me. I added a filter to the output to be able to dial in the sound - its not the MS filter itself, but does a good approximation of the static cut off filter you can make with the Start/Stop sliders on a MS set at the same place.

It shines for things like the Smashing Pumpkins Siamese Dream era solo sounds where its an octave up and gnarly fuzz, and having the clean signal means you can stack fuzzes too. Also, its not my exact cup of tea but it cops a lot of that John Mayer thing where he had a really cool lofi fuzz solo tone on some live cuts.






Just so I dont forget

BOM:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Xa0SL2IED0Ec2r6M2_xnSVBZJqhK4pIk/edit?usp=drive_link&ouid=110218901478219288973&rtpof=true&sd=true

TAYDA Drill setup
https://drill.taydakits.com/box-designs/new?public_key=TjIxWFRCeUpET1N3Sm9ldmxhOFh4UT09Cg==

Hi everyone

I have an interesting (to me at least) conundrum
Someone has asked me about making a special 2-in-1 pedal, one is a Super Hard on Boost, the other is a Silicon Tone Bender mk2 style fuzz. At the end would be a pair of filters (HP, LP)

In series it should be SHO > TB
In parallel, the TB at least should "see" the guitar input - meaning not buffered before

My first idea of course was to do a simple buffered splitter for the parallel part. The series/parallel switching is then pretty straightforward. However, the non-buffer is the problem with that.

Is it possible to just ignore buffers altogether and just split the signal to both effect inputs (when in parallel) ?

Thanks
Ian

Howdy friends

I wanted to check in here as I embark on something new, which has given me pause to reflect on the past and this amazing hobby of building effects pedals and the great community here.

Last November I lost my job. It was the darkest period of my life. I work in biotech, and suffered severe burnout, stress, anxiety and ended up being let go. Subsequently the job market has been severely impacted by world events, and I am still out of a day job to this day. I would be lying if I said I didn't spiral to dark places, but what pulled me out in part was the opportunity to do some things that I should have done ages ago. The culmination of this will be me launching my own line of pedals next week – under the re-imagined "Gigahearts FX" brand which some people will remember from years gone by. I always dreamed of having a pedal company, ever since I realised I was too old and not talented enough to make a living in a band as a musician and it feels like now or never (!)

I have been leaning again on the DIY community for inspiration, learning and skills. I have learned PCB CAD design from the ground up. I have been breadboarding and modding and building, even using vero again for some prototyping. I learned illustrator having relied on MS paint of all things for many years, allowing me to get enclosures professionally UV printed. For the first designs I'm doing good old 3PDTs, but I have got relay bypass schemes on my bench and breadboard, and have been programming Arduinos to make Attiny85 micro controllers. Wild... I've had the time to dedicate to learning for the first time in many years, and its been super fun, and its amazing just how rich the community is with shared knowledge. The generosity of folks is ever impressive. If like me you thought some of this was beyond you, give it a try. YouTube is amazing!

So why I am writing this? Honestly, I am trying not to be a schill. Hopefully people e-know me enough to trust that. Regardless, everyone here can do everything I have done, and more, and better. I don't think you need to buy pedals from me (!) but of course feel free if you really like something I am doing. However, it would be amazing if you wanted to follow me on Instagram and take a look at what I am doing, like it, share it perhaps? I would like to grow my audience and make a proper attempt at this. Hey, if nothing else I am being honest about needing help. Feedback would also be really helpful to me now, coming from a point of, honestly, the lowest self confidence base I have ever had in life.

Also, I am writing this to say thankyou. While I haven't been active in the community recently (I got married and had a kid a couple years ago, that with a destructive job really gives you so little time for "fun"), and as per usual I have leached more than I can ever pay back, I wanted to address how much I value the people here and the skills I have been able to pick up and build upon. Thankyou also for the inspiration. I still browse the forums and see what people are making and designing frequently.

Anyway. Cheers to you all. I hope to give back as much as I can.

The new designs are things I like, inspired by classic circuits. While there is nothing truly new here, I have approached this from the aspect of continuous progression, performance lead feature improvements, and refinements that I think people will enjoy.

Cheers

Ian / LaceSensor / Gigahearts

www.gigaheartsfx.com launches Tuesday 16th September 2025 4pm GMT / 8am PST / 1pm EDT
@gigahearts_fx

Hi

I am looking into envelope control of PT2399 or similar.
I have a snazzyfx wowflutter that does this quite well.

The circuit snippet here seems pretty wasteful of a DIP14 chip



Could you replace that with just a MOSFET pair like this?

HI

I am thinking about implementing relay bypass in the future.
I think some of the flexi switching ala EQD is pretty cool. However, I have no skills in coding to design something like that, let alone burn it to chips somehow.

Does anyone sell just the chips (not the surrounding parts or relays) but droppable into a suitable schematic? Even something simpler with effective debounce would be a start.

I know that there are options but I just want to uC so I can do my own PCB design and integrate it properly. Thanks!

Hi

Does anyone have the "old" v1.4 build doc for the Cardinal Tremolo, layout by 1776 effects?
It seems they did a V2, and the parts BOM has changed, and I cant find the PDF for the "old" one anywhere, inc my HDD

Thanks in advance!

Hi. Ive been away for a long time but wanting to get back into the pedal scene.
Recently I lost my job and had a legal battle to fight about how that went down.
Now I am looking to take a career break and focus on things that make me happy (or happier)

I have a few ideas floating in my mind, resurrecting my old "gigahearts_fx" name and doing some pedals that people might even want to buy. hey, we can dream.

To that end, I want some help with a circuit idea. I think I know the answer but no harm asking smart people than relying on my brain.

I want a circuit that turns "on" in response to a threshold or gate influenced by picking strength. That to me would be an envelope detection circuit. however, what I want it to do is (when "on") divert the signal to another effect, or a send out somewhere else perhaps, rather than influence the Q of a filter as in an autowah.

Therefore, what would I need to tie the envelope circuitry to, in order to do that?
In things like the Lovetone meatball, the pick attack causes an LED to get more bright, but I want to avoid LDRs where possible. Is it something that a basic transistor can do based off the change in voltage coming out of the envelope generator?

Hope this makes sense

Thanks for any help

Ian

Hey everyone

I recently acquired a 78 IC deluxe big muff - the first version with the blend switch
Schematic is here https://postimg.cc/F7LVjGz1

It came with a 110v transformer and plug, and Im in the 240v UK
So I took an EHX transformer from another 70s pedal I have (Clone Theory) and wired it up.
Pedal works as it should, to the best of my knowledge

Two issues however.
1 - ideally I want to get rid of the noisy transformer
2 - its getting quite hot in operation and Im not sure thats normal / risky. Not too hot to touch but very warm
3 - the pedal uses a wierd power supply set up with a rectifier diode, and Ne5554n regulator chip

The power requiremens are basically bipolar +5v and -5v

I am wondering however if its possible to run it just off +9v and ground?
Alternatively, does anyone have a nifty circuit to make +5v and -5v like a RoadRage but different??

Thanks for the help!

Ian

Hi All

Looking for some advice.
I have used the same soldering station for a long time, a Xytronic LF-1680
Its electronically controlled and can set the temp.

Ive always used (dont judge!) 60/40 solder, 1mm, rosin flux coated.
Ive never really needed extra flux.

Recently the iron tip thing broke - not the metal tip, but the ceramic part inside somehow.
I ended up replacing the whole "wand" as it was better value to do so.

Now, fast forward a little bit, I am really struggling with cold joints. Ive replaced the tip multiple times. I havent changed brand of solder.

Any ideas wtf is going on? Can solder go off?
Ive ordered some more solder, and some additional stand-alone flux to try and figure this out.
Its sooo wierd, Ive never had this issue in like 15 years.

thanks

testinh if this works.

Lace

Did anyone jump on the hype train for this one?

555 units, apparently its thru hole construction. Lazer etched, cute wooden box, velvet bag.
If it is indeed thru hole, the $250 is pretty reasonable

https://www.ehx.com/products/double-anniversary-big-muff-pi/

Waiting for $1000 on Reverb lolz to commence

Hi

I am endeavouring upon a project to build a Danelectro style guitar - yes, with the plywood and masonite etc.
I have looked at the original Dano wiring and understand how it works. For those unfamiliar, its two single coil "lipstick" pickups with Volume and Tone for each. The pots are stacked dual concentric, there is one 100k/1M stacked pot for each pickup, volume (100k) and tone (1M). The tone cap for the neck pickup is 0.047 uF, and the bridge pickup tone cap is 0.01 uF. The pickup-selector toggle switch is a single pole on-off-on switch, offering the following sounds:
•   Bridge pickup alone
•   Bridge + neck pickup in series
•   Neck pickup alone

The wiring is as such: with the bridge pickup engaged, the neck pickup is shorted out with its hot and ground connected, and the bridge pickup is directly connected to the output. With the neck pickup engaged, the output of the bridge volume pot is connected to ground. In the middle position, both pickups are connected in series.



T ofhe issue is two fold - those type pots are comparatively very expensive, and Dano used custom ones with 100k/1M in the stack. So I cant actually find them and even non-custom ones are more than the rest of the materials for the guitar.
I want to keep the clean "two knob" look but simplify to a master volume and tone, while retaining the series switching which is part of the charm.

Would this make sense in that case?


I can make pedals but wiring guitars gives me a headache, especially understanding series/parallel, coil splits etc.

A spare set of eyes would be welcome! cheers

Another day another chorus pedal. This time, the Asheville Music Tools ACV-1
https://www.ashevillemusictools.com/products/acv-1

To say this one is special would be an understatement. I have been looking into the AMpT Asheville pedals for some time but never pulled the trigger as in the UK with the import fees it's kinda insane. Also I was waiting for the flanger which was the last release and the video demos left me colder than I was expecting - I said to a friend at the time I actually prefer the chorus.

I picked this up locally, so local the guy was just down the road and dropped it round by hand - good service! It was significantly cheaper than acquiring one new. The box is standard but it comes in a nice suede bag thing which was cute.

The pedal itself is a marvel of engineering and no I haven't had time/courage to take it apart. Suffice to say there are many hundreds of SMD parts ripe for Behringer to clone here. The fact they squeeze all this into a standard Hammond case is beyond me. The efforts for shielding and signal screening while a bit rustic on first glance clearly are effective (theres copper tape round the I/O ribbon, and a laminated metal sheet under the jacks).

The sound itself is continuously varying - the LFOs are beautiful and distinct. It is capable of chorus flanging and doubling in much the same way the Lovetone Flange with No Name is/was (I've got one of those too so I know what I am hearing is legit).

I haven't found a dud sound, it can go to the borders of oscillation not quite as crazily as the Lovetone unit but very much in the same realm of warble-siren. For classic 80s chorus this has it all in spades and so much more. I cant think of a chorus tone you couldnt acheive here, and with the mix control you can also go pure pitch vibrato.

My only critique is two fold: I have a strange affection for stereo and this is mono. Also it would have been cool to have a second footswitch to replace the polarity switch (similar to the original FoxRox TZF, again one of my favourite permanent collection).

Bottom line is this is the crème of analog chorus modulators in a surprisingly compact package and if you can afford one please buy one cos no one's cloning this anytime soon. For me the online videos didnt do this justice, and perhaps dont do the other pedals in the line justice either. I will certainly jump on the delay if I ever see one more affordable than new....

Hi all

I am intrigued by the Charvel DK24 HH pickup switching options.



I have scoured the internet for a wiring diagram and happened across this



My issue is I dont have the original pickups to play with (which are expensive SD units)
I do however have some Duncan Design 4-wire humbuckers to experiment on!

Main problem however seems to be the way the hot and coloured wires work on the Duncan Designs
The SD have the North Start (Black) as Hot, and the South Start (Green) as ground
The Dunc Design have the North Start (Black) as Ground, and the South Start (Green) as hot

Would it be so simple as, following the wiring diagram, swapping around the green and black wires?
I assume this, if it worked, would just mean the positions as it relates to the specific "inner/outer" coil that was active might just be flipped over from pos 2 and pos 4 on the selector switch...?

I am hopefully reliably informed that all humbuckers have the same "orientation" of the coils meaning North is always slug, South is Screws

Any help would be much appreciated as Ive never attempted wiring something so complicated and the diagram isnt exactly the best (!)

Cheers

Hi all

Just incase anyone here messes with guitars

I have a Squier Paranormal telecaster thinline with the jazzmaster pickups
I swapped the stock units out for Pure Vintage 65s and replaced the switch, and pots (CTS)
Also I added copper shielding tape all around

Now the issue I get is when I have it plugged in when I touch any metal work, it creates a static "pop" type sound
To me this is a grounding issue but I cannot figure it out
Ive had the guitar apart 3 times, rewired it, changed the switch

The only thing I havent done is change the pots again which I could. process of elimination I guess
Im loathed to beleive the pickups are "bad" inherently but I guess that could be a thing

Note, Ive tried other amp, cables etc.

Any ideas?

HI

Doesnt need to be a DIY project
Wondering if anyone knows of a pedal that does stereo delay auto-pan
This is not ping pong (which is just back and forth at a set "width" between two amps) but a gradual rotary panning across the stereo field?

I have a little fender mustang headphone amp thing that has this effect and I think its awesome. Would like to know if any pedals do it?

Cheers