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Since this was posted, I've gotten curious. If it was Vox-like, would one of these be able to do a clean sound, or do they really just do the overdriven thing?

I do use the George L's. I started using them 4 or 5 years ago. I just ordered the pedal board kit on Amazon for $80. I used to buy them at a local store, but that store is gone unfortunately.

Sorry to hear about your loss.

Know that we all really appreciate all the work that you do!

Very nice!

I can second that drilling has not been an issue with these enclosures. After attempting to paint an enclosure, I quickly discovered I would rather drill than paint. I use a cheap uni-bit that I got from Harbor Freight and a drill press. I cover the enclosure with masking tape as a precaution (I saw this somewhere else, maybe FSB?) and have not had a single issue with the paint being scratched or chipped.

Thanks. I will probably try the 1n34a.

Hello, I am trying to get the parts together to build a compressor sustainer I found over at FSB. It indicates a Ge diode or a Shottky. I am unsure what to get. I believe that it is part of a clipping block. Would a a 1N34A Ge diode work? I also see a lot of different Shottky's listed. If I went for one of these, which one?
Thanks.

I am still pretty new to this, but I have been thinking of trying something to get white.
Print out the artwork and cut out the portions that are to be white. Use this as a stencil to paint the enclosure white. Then print the artwork on a c;ear water slide decal sheet. Place the decal over the white. There should be plenty of time to slide the decal around to match it with the white.
This is purely hypothetical at this point, but it might be worth trying. Thought I would share the idea if anyone else wanted to attempt this before I get to it.

I am definitely a player. I play in the Denver area with Able Archer (http://www.myspace.com/ablearcherus). I have always like making things, and finally took the plunge to pedal building in the last month. I had known of BYOC for a year or so, but stumbled onto the Wampler books, and they gave me the courage to try pedal building. Then happened onto freestompboxes.org, and have been hooked ever since.

I used a pre- painted box from Pedal Parts Plus. The graphics are just the water slide decals from Smallbear. Then I put a few coats of Krylon clear coat on, baked in between each coat. There are a few blemishes and if you look close you can see the edges of the decal. But from any distance at all, it looks OK.
My first pedal was a GGG kit and I painted the enclosure and used a decal sheet I found at a hobby store locally. It didn't turn out nearly as well as this one. I much prefer drilling to painting.

Here is my Zombii build. This is my second pedal build and first using Madbean's PCB. Thanks for the cool resources, Madbean.

I was looking through some of the BYOC instructions and I noticed that they were using a small PCB for wiring/attaching a 3pdt footswitch (I found in in their tremolo instructions). Seems like something like this might make wiring the switch a lot easier. Any thoughts on making something similar?

Thanks. That's what I was thinking, but I wanted to make sure before I assembled a bunch of parts.
Thanks for the response and the cool forum.

A noob question:
I am looking at building a few pedals and understand most of the markings on the schematics. I want to clarify how pots are labeled. Am I right that a 'B' such as, 10kB, is a linear pot? Then a pot with an 'A' is an audio taper?
What does the 'C' designation mean, such as a 10kC?

Thanks.