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Soldering Stations - what's hot and what's not?

Started by Philtre, February 10, 2018, 02:38:28 AM

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EBK

Since there are lots of Hakko users here, I have to ask:  Does anyone else just leave it on the default setting (750), never bothering to try other temps or even figure out the optimum temp?  Maybe it's just me.   
"There is a pestilence upon this land. Nothing is sacred. Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress in this period in history." --Roger the Shrubber

pickdropper

Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder?   8)

The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO.  Less chance of a bad joint.

Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?

The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state.  It goes from liquid to solid with no transition.  60/40 does.  If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint.  60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.
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EBK

63/37 allows me to enjoy more beer or coffee while soldering.   :P
"There is a pestilence upon this land. Nothing is sacred. Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress in this period in history." --Roger the Shrubber

pickdropper

Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 08:03:09 AM
Since there are lots of Hakko users here, I have to ask:  Does anyone else just leave it on the default setting (750), never bothering to try other temps or even figure out the optimum temp?  Maybe it's just me.   

That should be fine if you keep the dwell time low.  I use 720F for my adj. Weller station and the fixed tips I use for my Metcal have a max temp of 775F.  I use these for things like microphones and balanced armature receivers which are generally more heat sensitive than most electronic components.
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PMowdes2


I got my Hakko frm here  http://www.dancap.co.uk

It was the cheapest i could find it.  The dancap website is a bit crap and you have to pay by bank transfer but my iron arrived next day, no trouble at all.  And they have a good selection of tips
DeadEndFX

EBK

By the way, I ordered an additional fine point tip direct from Hakko (well, from their US subsidiary), and I got a very friendly marketing call from them asking if they could help me with anything else.  They were very polite even after they found out I was just a hobbyist with limited funds.  ;)
"There is a pestilence upon this land. Nothing is sacred. Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress in this period in history." --Roger the Shrubber

alanp

As long as you have an iron with enough watts (I have a 40W pencil iron, no temp control, plug n go), good technique (this is huge), and good solder (I like 60/40, it's more forgiving of me twitching slightly or components moving ever so slightly), you can get away with nearly anything.
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blearyeyes

Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 08:03:45 AM
Quote from: Philtre on February 10, 2018, 07:47:15 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on February 10, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
Quote from: EBK on February 10, 2018, 07:10:05 AM
While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder?   8)

The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO.  Less chance of a bad joint.

Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?

The difference is that 63/37 is a blend that has no crystalline state.  It goes from liquid to solid with no transition.  60/40 does.  If anything moves during the transition, you can end up with a bad joint.  60/40 is fine, 63/37 is just a little bit better.

What brand of 63/37 do you like/use?

somnif

I use Kester no-clean 63/37. Bought a 1lb roll like 2 years ago and still working through it. I also keep a bottle of rosin flux handy for tricky joints, but the no-clean suits me fine for 90%+ purposes.

(Actually just looked it up, its been exactly 2 years as of yesterday. Freaky timing)

mjg

I've got some solder that I inherited from somewhere, 60 tin, 2 copper, 38 lead.  Not sure what the 2% copper does?  Gives it that certain je ne c'est pas? 

Anyway, another Hakko 888D user here, and I'm really happy with it.  I've set it up to have 3 preset temperatures - 350 for normal, 370 for hotter requirements, and 250 for cool down and clean up. 

Philtre

My Hakko FX-888D arrived today and I'm loving it. Set it to 350C and it feels wonderful. A nice solid clunk as it sits in its holder, way better than the worryingnly bouncy spring holder of my previous Antex 18w. And my solder joints are much better.  8)

somnif

Quote from: Philtre on February 13, 2018, 04:14:55 AM
My Hakko FX-888D arrived today and I'm loving it. Set it to 350C and it feels wonderful. A nice solid clunk as it sits in its holder, way better than the worryingnly bouncy spring holder of my previous Antex 18w. And my solder joints are much better.  8)

Another bit of advice, don't bother with the sponge, the brass fluff is a much better tip cleaner. Wet things just cool the iron.

EBK

Alternatively, if you do bother with the sponge, as I do, always clean any new sponges with soapy water and a thorough rinse before first use.
"There is a pestilence upon this land. Nothing is sacred. Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress in this period in history." --Roger the Shrubber

somnif

Aw, not a fan of the random "I think my sinuses are dying" smell of industrial sponge preservative?  ;D

Philtre

Thanks for advice, guys. Still loving it.

Today I soldered up a Hearthrob tremolo on vero with the Hakko, and it was really smooth. Less dwell time on each solder joint, and good clean contact. Used less solder, too. Pedal worked first time. :-)

I love it that I can switch it off without worrying about how long it'll take to get back up to temperature. Oh, and the brass stuff cleans the tip like a champ.