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Madbean Naughty Fish, very faaawnkee sounding circuit, thanks Bean for such a goodie!
The usual hippie swirl paint jobbie, top mount jacks, THCustom Ueberswitch relay switching board.

Here's what I boxed up just recently:
on the left a THcustom U-Boat, great octaver, quite different from the lowrider (which I really dig too).
Relativly great tracking not only with single notes but even with simple chords, have to really try it more to push things and find out it's particular strengths. Also need to experiment more with position in chain to see where it works best for me.
In any case good fun! With THcustom Ueberswitch relay bypass. Thanks Thomas and Valvewizard M. Blencowe for such a great project!
And on the right Stomptown / Jon's excellent Pennyroyal Chorus. I'm not a huge chorus guy but this is growing on me! Like it, to my amazement and of course glad I built it. Won't overuse it, but does sound great!
Again, THC ueberswitch relay board, a bit of a tight one with the usual top mounted jacks that I need on my pedals.





Grumpy cat wants attention...



Look at me, look at me...

... well, probably 3 or 4 circuits with submini pots if you're SMD junkie like wgc or chuckbuick or stacking artist like juansolo.

I go instead for 2 today, that'll do me.
I'm not a huge Marshall fan yet you needs some in ya' life don't ya?
So rather than having two boxes and a bit of wasted space I'll get these two flavours of a similar hotrodded Marshall type of thing into one box and can select between them.
The bottom left circuit is a Lovepedal Purple Plexi on my own designed pcb, the top right one is a DAM Sonic Titan, again my pcb design (both pcbs oshpark fabbed).
Both circuits do the balls to the wall cranked screaming Marshall thing quite well I think.



And this is how I'll mount them in the box, put a DPDT switch to select between which one is active.





A bit of shoehorning, the DPDT is a bit burried away...



And the outside, ready to roar:

Haven't been boxing up much lately, lots of finished pcbs though and more half way sitting in a pile waiting for attention.
Finally got some time to get some done and was keen to give the new THCustom 'Ueberswitch' some action.

I admire and enjoy all your guys clever photoshopping, awesome laser engraving, etching of course, envirotex and all that. Super.

Yet for my stuff I go different just because I like it for myself like this, in fact my whole pedalboard looks like somewhat of an explosion of jelly bean vomit http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=18908.0

And labels I only do when I get a bit soft on me... like for the Doppelgaenger or the Snowy White autowah, odd controls which are indeed a bit hard to remember amongst it all. For the rest there's a 'secret' system in the chaos and I take a slightly twisted satisfaction out of the bedrazzled looks and lost faces I get when I plonk my my board on a stage somewhere.
(I guess I should see a shrink about that... but I ain't too bothered by it... ).

So welcome to the family, here we have from left to right
Box of Rock (without SHO boost section) with added input cap selector for more/less bass content
Juan's and Cleggy's SuperJudge, fab Marshall in a can, addictive
demo tape fuzz, faaaawnnnky and versatile unique sounding circuit, great fun
Skreddy Moonlander, super versatile Fuzz and great sounding on lower gain settings in distortion/OD settings too! Wicked, dig it. So much in there, just scratched the surface only yet. Fun fun fun.





guts in a row: THcustom Ueberswitch in action, super stuff! Great work Thomas! First impressions and experience: top notch!
All pcb designed by me, mainly because I like to have the board mounted pots so that I can top mounted jacks (no discussion about that, has to be for me) and because I like the challenge and well it's fun and so forth.



Moon Lander close up:



Super Judge has the clipping LEDs showing, nice light show while the window panes get blasted out of the frames



Box of Rock (without boost, which I think is the same as Zvex Distortron...?) In any case, nice cranked Marshall crunch, I called it JTM 45 and it does that noicely.

Ooouuuuuhhhhhhyaya....

My stab at making a powersupply for pedalboard that goes on wallwart and can be used with rechargable battery pack.

Time to make pcb: 3 weeks twiddling the thumbs, doin' nothing but waiting for slow boat from China.
It's a buck converter I scored off ebay, with voltage display. Regulates voltage down to level that can be adjusted with trimpot.

Time to wire up internal parts like jacks to pcb: probably 15 min....

Time to do the ruler kung-fu, layout the holes to fit the pcb parts, file square hole, put the jacks in, prepare accentuator, wire battery pack and fiddle it all in place to work: considerably longer...

Anyway, here's the idea: I feed it around 15 to 16 V DC via wallwart or rechargable Li-Ion pack, the buck converter regulates it down to 9.4 V (or where I set the trimpot to) and Bob's your Uncle (that's probably a typical Kiwi saying for 'its all sweet' or so).

How long would the battery pack last?
Well, the proof is in da pudding, as they say.
Of course depends on currentdraw of board, capability of batteries and efficiency of converter. The batteries I scored (off ebay, Chinese) are labelled an unrealistic 6000mAh a pop, that is way inflated dream lala land stuff and I don't think it would be even possible to make a 186500 rechargable that capable, so rather than calculating screwed figures I just stick it together and see what happens.

Really neat about the converter is that it has the voltage display AND a little pcb mini switch that allows to select between displaying output voltage (default setting; 9.4 V), input voltage (meaning it monitors battery charge; fully charged set does 16.2 V) or, even better, toggles between input and output voltage display every 3 seconds. So it shows input (battery level) and output level (to pedals).
VERY useful to monitor when batteries are starting to loose the plot and get a feel for how long it will last.
To accentuate that switch I had a stompswitch accentuater from a broken momentary switch (guess who..... Tayda....) that I modified to put in there to switch the display modes. It was a bit of a challenge to get the accentuator to fit right to get that tiny pcb switch... but it worked in the end.
I left a tiny hole to be able to reach trimpot if needed, once all in place I stuck a clear foil over cutouts so that dust and gunk doesn't go in too easily.

Does it work?
So far so good, I don't notice any elevated noise levels with the buck converter (and I have used it once on high volume at band practise so far), it works fine on wallwart (a 15V digital switching wart) and last about 7 to 8 hours on battery charge as it seems, in my setup.
My board that I'm supplying has 20 different circuits from wah, tuner, overdrives, two delays and the most powerhungry ones probably the Harbinger, Doppelgaenger Phaser and Octaver on there.

I do have a second battery pack, so I can take it to gig and have a spare one at hand if needed and I could always go to wallwart too if push comes to shove,
So it seems a good solution so far (although I'm keen to see what RobA comes up with his other approach in the eagle thread too!).

Will post another photo if you guys are interested with the whole thing mounted to pedalboard.

Tayda discount code
15% Discount Coupon Code : PEACE
**EXCLUDING ENCLOSURES CATEGORY**
**Valid till 26 July 2014 ( 6pm New York time )

Wondeering what's a good picture embedding website to use to put pics up in threads?
How do you guys do it?
Cheers

First to the name:
Paua is the Maori name for New Zealand Abalone and a real Kiwi icon, a pretty and yummy sea snail http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C4%81ua and it's pronounced pretty much like 'power' in English. Many of you might have some paua shell inlays on your guitars as fretboard markers or so.
So I thought that's a good name for this unassuming box...

Built this powersupply based on Tonepad board with Chromosphere anti hum board to boot, started as a slightly blemished red powdercoated enclosure, did (of course, Mr. Murphy and his laws...) a few more scratches as I filled the holes square, so decided to put a coarse sanding disc to it and maybe finish it with something else.
After the sanding I thought 'well that looks actually cool in it's kinda raw industrial look' so I left it and thought it's a bit of a Cinderella by accident...
Really had a laugh that the inside was still perfect ferrari red, which of course as all avid TGP readers will assure us, makes electrons more competitive and hormonally charged, resulting in swifter turns in tight corners and adds even more to the magic of the Klon centaur and similar enigmas....

I scored this LED display voltmeter of evilbay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290904545866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
and put that in as a sorta fancy indicator, when everythin rolls fine the display glows happily blue and shows the dialed in voltage. I set it with internal trimpot to 9.4 V as that's what most fresh batteries pump out I believe.
I checked the accuracy of that voltmeter against my benchtop Fluke meter and it's pretty darn close...
When there's a short or some other trouble the display will let me know.

Goes nicely and humfree, the LM317 puts out 1500 mA (says the datasheet), I poewer the box with a 2A 15V digital switching wallwart.
Nice project and recommend the Tonepad project and Chromosphere's hum pellet thingy!
Cheers

Hi everyone,
I've just finished this Lovetone Doppelganger phaser on AlanP's fantastic board, many thanks to everyone who made this possible (Lacesensor, AlanP and I'm sure there's others).
I was a bit apprehensivce after reading about LFO ticking issues with this, but it all worked out sweet, fired up first time and sounds friggin' AMAZING!
I had only the faintest ticking when testing outside of box, but boxed up and mounted on board it is perfect and I've been through many different settings (although there's so many good sounds in this box with all the controls and interactivity...).
I did use Smallbear 20k/2Meg LDRs, Tayda diff green LEDs and covered them in heatshrink so there's no interference, everything really as in AlanP's project doc.
It's wired in true bypass and I used a second footswitch for the dual LFO switch, which I find really useful.
Not too sure if I will label the controls as I do like the swirly look without anything else, but then there's a bunch of unusaul dials here, so I might end up putting labels on, will see how necessary I find it using it.
One thing that might also help to avoid LFO ticking ios that I have it after a buffer (after Klon with bypass buffer), so maybe that's something to try for anyone who has got issues with that?
Anyway, I dig it!

Cheers!