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Topics - harryklippton

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Build Reports / MEAT (snack shack)
« on: June 05, 2020, 04:58:25 PM »
Snack shack on an etched board for a friend. He requested the glowing pink enclosure, battery only, and I had the skirted knob, which he loved. Pink LED. this friend is a connoisseur of BEEF. Sounds cool.

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Build Reports / OcJAvia (Retrograde)
« on: June 03, 2020, 03:02:12 PM »
This is my first completed madbean project. I had a little trouble getting the jacks to fit around the stomp switch but not too bad.

I made this as a gift for my guitar teacher. His initials are JA, so that's why it's an "ocJAvia," and that's his face on the pedal. I havent seen him in person in 80 something days, but was able to drop this off to him today. He was thrilled!

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I decided to try some breadboarding this week just going off a schematic to a working circuit on the breadboard. Are there any generally accepted rules on layout, an approach you take to this task, or any tips you can share?

My first attempt was doing a fuzz face. I know small bear has a good tutorial, which I had done in the past but I wanted to get past just following someone's step by step instructions. After some troubleshooting and a missing connection, I got it working well. Then I tried an LPB1 and something is a little off.

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Hey y'all, I'm working on a retrograde build and have some more general diode questions. I have a bag of 1N34as from Tayda, and a much smaller quantity of "1N34a work-alikes" from small bear. (I think) I understand that the white stripe on a silicon diode indicates the anode, but when it comes to germaniums, they seem to be marked in many different ways. Here are my questions:

Are the 1N34as from Tayda really 1n34A?

What are the work-alikes from Small Bear actually?

Do the stripes on the germaniums also indicate the anode?

How can I test diodes? What information can I determine by testing myself?

Pics attached of the aforementioned diodes. Thanks!

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Build Reports / Vol Forge (sabbra cadabra)
« on: March 04, 2020, 09:01:57 PM »
I'm really enjoying how this pedal sounds. I managed to get a stash of MPF4393s for these builds, but it looks like they have since dried up. I recently got some surface mount mmbf4393s and will build one more just to compare for fun.

Graphics are laser printed on adhesive vinyl and then clear coated. It was my first time trying any graphics. I also tried one with "sticker paper" which has a more matte surface and didn't really like being clear coated.

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Introductions / Hi from NWCT
« on: August 26, 2019, 11:45:35 AM »
hi y'all, my name is Will. I've been lurking here for a couple of months. I'm very dangerous with a soldering iron and good at assembling projects that don't work. I'm constantly trying to learn stuff and have enjoyed reading posts here.

Last year I got back into pedal building after not doing any electronics projects for a few years. I botched an amp build a few years back thinking i was hot shit and then got discouraged. I've purchased a buttload of madbean boards but haven't assembled any yet. Once I stray from a kit, things tend to not work so well. Anyway, nice to "meet" you all!

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Hi, I tried building a test box and it doesn't work. I'm using a Rullywow 3PDT board for my switch. I thought I had everything hooked up correctly, but I guess not. Here's what I know so far:

1. The LED never lights up in either switch position.
2. I don't know what value to use for the CLR resistor. I think I used a 100ohm resistor.
3. I get 9v across the barrel jack lugs, on the pcb connection at the other end of the wires connected to the barrel jack, and at the end of the alligator clips going to the circuit I wish to test.
4. In one switch position, I get signal to my amp. In the other position, no signal.

I hope I made a silly goof here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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