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Topics - Bucksears

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Tech Help - Projects Page / Stand-alone Road Rage
« on: February 06, 2014, 06:22:35 PM »
I'm thinking of putting one of my Road Rages (9V+ to 15V+) in a standalone enclosure; basically two power jacks, one 9V (in), the other 15V (out).

When connecting the power cables, I get that the outer portions would go to the positive voltage on each connection, but what about the center (-)? Since that typically goes to ground, can these two center negatives connect even though the postives are different voltages?


General Questions / Meatball + Dig Dug + Sharkfin = too much overlap?
« on: November 18, 2013, 12:51:32 PM »
So I have a Meatball clone and the MB Sharkfin both on my bench, in 'build' status.
I was thinking about doing a Dig Dug, but would that be a little redundant, with sample/hold side of the Fin? (i.e. the automated step thing)

Tech Help - Projects Page / Road Rage Grounding
« on: October 15, 2013, 08:00:19 AM »
I'm using the Road Rage as an internal voltage doubler in a chorus pedal, but have a question about grounding.
From the DC jack, the 9V(+) goes to the corresponding pad on the RR, but does the (-) on the jack just go to ground?
Long story short, the LED in my chorus pedal is wired directly to the 9V+ / - on the DC jack. I'm getting popping when I switch the effect on/off. I'm wondering if it's because the LED is 9V, the chorus circuit sees 18V and they're all on the same ground.

Any ideas?

Open Discussion / Halving stages in a BBD
« on: May 23, 2013, 02:19:56 PM »
Is there a way to use just half the number of stages in a BBD? I was wondering if that's what designers are doing when they modify a unit (particularly flangers) to use an MN3007 (just guessing).

How is that done, exactly? I'm asking because I'm having problems finding a particular 512-stage IC for a new project and was wondering if I could get the same results by using a 1024-stage IC and halving the stages.


Open Discussion / Waveshaker Chorus?
« on: May 08, 2013, 09:40:59 PM »
Ok, any hints as to what this one is based on?

I just finished my Collosalus build and it works (sounds like the flanger 'in my head' always has), but having noise issues and want to run a few things by you guys:

1) I'm using BC550C's instead of 549C's because that's what I had on hand. Are 550C's more noisy? What's a suitable direct replacement for a 549C?

2) I'm using wires to connect the pots to the board, rather than using PC-mount pots. I drilled the case before I really had a look at the way the leads are oriented on the PCB.

3) I've tried running it at 9V and 12V; either way, it sounds the same (lots of background noise, gets louder at the bottom of the sweep).

4) I tried swapping out the MN3007 with another one that I had on hand, but it was like a Star Wars gunfight when I switched it on; same flanging sound, but a repetitive high-pitched chirp that sounded like you were tuning in a radio station on a transistor radio.

5) The input/output jacks and footswitch are at the bottom of the case; no wiring going past the MN3007.

Think the most likely culprit is #1 or #2? (or any other ideas?)

- Buck

Build Reports / Voxy Brown build done (no pics)
« on: April 21, 2013, 01:16:39 PM »
Just finished the Voxy Brown external - i.e. not in a case yet. I had high hopes for this one, and it does sound good for the most part; it's just that it's too 'cocked-wah' for me when the boost is on. This is probably a testament to it's intent - to really nail that Brian May (or Mick Ronson a la 'Ziggy Stardust') lead tone. With the boost on, it really reminds me of the classic Runoffgroove 'May Queen' circuit, but with an EQ and gain control. If that's what you're looking for, the Galileo/Voxy Brown is the one to build. I built a May Queen about 5 or 6 years ago and didn't really like the sound all that much.

The non-boosted mode is ok, but I think I like my AC-Tone clone better overall for both low/med/high gain Vox-like tones. I'll have to play around with it a bit more before deciding whether or not to box it up.
Just my $.02

General Questions / Boneyard vs stock Plexitone: comparison?
« on: November 27, 2012, 08:04:38 AM »
Has anyone A/B'd an off-the-shelf Plexitone with a Boneyard build? If so, are they pretty comparable?

One thing I've noticed is, there are apparently two versions of the Plexitone: earlier one with four clipping LEDs and the later one with three. One of the main schematics I've worked from is (reportedly) based on the three-LED version and it notes some component differences between it and an earlier versions.

Madbean's uses four LEDs and almost all of the other parts are similar to the 3-LED version. I'm half tempted to pick up a PT just to compare notes.

I finally finished up my Current Lover build - need to read the instructions fully as I didn't jumper 'send/return' or the C5 pads (using MN3007). It works properly and needs to be fine-tuned, but it seems like it's overdriving really easily.

Is that a biasing issue and I need to keep going until I find the sweet spot, or is it something that is affected by the 4558 and/or the transistors? (could one of the transistors be too 'hot' for it?)

All that aside, should I try running it at 12V next?

Thanks guys

Can anyone tell me which pairs of pads to jumper in the toggle switch section to leave it in 'flanger-only' mode?
I've heard some of the clips of the 'filter' mode and I can't really see myself using it. It would be more trouble to line up a hole for the toggle than to just leave it out.

Mods / Sunking diodes: low forward voltage best?
« on: January 16, 2012, 10:36:08 AM »
I know everyone's ears are different and should go with what sounds best vs what is 'correct' on paper, but is it a general consensus that lower-forward-voltage diodes sound best in the Sunking? (be it BAT41, 1N270, 1N34a, etc?)

Thinking about building a Sunking while waiting for the new Klon pedal to be released/reviewed. I've liked the clips I've heard of the Klon and has my curiosity piqued.


Tech Help - Projects Page / Mysterioso Jr: gated/fizzy distortion
« on: July 12, 2010, 06:56:45 PM »
Got my Mysterioso board last week (thanks Brian!) and did the board this weekend, the rest of the wiring tonight.
All controls work, bypass works, but I'm getting that 'misbiased transistor' sound when I play with any gain. The buffer/reactive switch seems to work.
All parts are correct and I triple checked the copper side for any unintended solder traces.

Anything else I can check?

Tech Help - Projects Page / Mysterisoso Jr: CD4049UBC?
« on: June 13, 2010, 02:03:05 PM »
Just finished up the Mysterioso Jr and found that I didn't have a CD4049UBE, but I do have the CD4049UBCN. Should that be swappable with the E?
I plugged everything in and just got fuzz/noise, etc., misbiased 'gating' sounds. Nothing musical.

Just wondering if I should go ahead and get the correct IC, or troubleshoot something else.


Tech Help - Projects Page / Serendipity: more treble?
« on: June 10, 2010, 08:08:53 AM »
I wired/boxed up my Serendipity last night and REALLY like the sound of it. It gets VERY close to the sound I was getting out of my Jetter Gold (which is what I was hoping it would do); smooth, midrangey lead sounds, pinch harmonics happening a little too. It doesn't have as much gain on tap as the gold, but I'd like to swap out the 500k gain pot for a 1M and see if that will do it.
I think with some more gain and treble, it could (potentially) be a Mesa Mark I in a box. Total jazz-fusion/Santana leads going on.

And about the treble - I have to max out the voice and almost the tone control to get the bite I'd like. Almost all of the treble is at the end of the taper.
Is there any way to increase that in this circuit? I'd like a little more 'play' in the tone control - maybe should use a Lin pot instead of Log?

Tech Help - Projects Page / Mysterioso Jr. Boost footswitch wiring
« on: May 23, 2010, 09:11:57 AM »
How/where would you wire up a footswitch to be able to switch the boost on/off?
I'm assuming this would also include the 'MID'-toggle part of the circuit, so I'm not sure where to bypass the boost section.


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