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Messages - dbharris

#16
Those are some might fine looking pedals!
#17
Audio/Video Demos / Honeydripper
October 28, 2012, 02:45:33 AM
It's really too bad that my guitar playing skills peaked like 3 years ago. Oh well, here is some noodling. My apologizes for the solo being meh (especially the end). Using my epi les paul, bridge pickup (a SD screamin' demon), my Mesa Lone Star Special. Channel 2 does not have "drive" engaged so it is only 2 triodes, on the 5 watt setting. Channel 1 is on 30 watt setting. I'm happy to answer any other questions.  More infos in the youtube description.

-Dan



#18
General Questions / Re: Honeydripper capacitor question
October 26, 2012, 04:45:18 PM
In case anyone searches for the answer...they do indeed work
#19
Build Reports / Re: Diptonizer / Honeydripper
October 26, 2012, 09:39:58 AM
@Haberdasher the mods that I made were all suggested in the build docs as parts to play around with.
R5 is really just changing the output, 180K seemed like it dropped volume a little bit.  330K boosted it a lot, and 220K boosted it a little above unity.  I really think closer to 200K would be right around unity, but I was tired of swapping parts around by that point.

R21 is what Brian says effects the intensity of the sweep (or something similar).  In the build docs the suggested range was 1K-10K and he preferred 2K.  I agree that the intensity is "sharper" with lower values, but I felt with 10K I could get a more even response across the usable range of the sweep pot.  I guess this resistor is more of a change in feeling when you play than tone if that makes any sense.

C2 was also suggested to play around with, it is in the fuzz/od part of the circuit.  I would encourage everyone to socket this cap, it really lets you fine tune the pedal for your specific guitar and amp.  I play an epi les paul with a seymour duncan jazz in the neck and screamin deamon in the bridge, into a Mesa Lone Star Special (basically a hotrodded balckface fender style amp).  Anything in the pf range was just too bright for my taste, even 3n3 sounded good to me, but I felt like 1n was a happy middle ground.

Thanks for the comments about the sweep range guys, as long as it is not an error in my build I am happy.  I couldn't care less if it has to be set fairly high as it won't really be something I adjust often.

As a general not, if you put a Ross style compressor in front of this pedal I found it makes for some good results.  A little bit more consistent filtering/sweeping and it changes the tone quite a bit (brightens/sharpens).  Might be fun to try if you have one laying around.  I dunno if similar things would happen with other kinds of compressors.
#20
Build Reports / Diptonizer / Honeydripper
October 25, 2012, 02:22:54 PM
Been wanting to build one of these for like 2 years.  Big thanks to Madbean for the awesome Honeydripper project and build docs.  Fired up first time, like all of bean's boards.  I wanted to do a little nod to the original, so bright yellow finish with hammered black on the sides, and yellow LED of course.

This was my first attempt at waterslides it came out pretty good all things considering.  But definitely more shrinkage than I anticipated LOL.  I must thank PPG and DuctTapeRiot, if not for their generous contributions to the BYOC forum I would not have been able to make a decent looking decal.

It sounds awesome!!!  My one issue is that the sweep control is really only effective in the last 80% of the pot rotation, but I am loving this pedal.

Mods: R5=220K, C2=1n, R21=10K, D1/D2=Bat41 asymmetrical, D3/D4=NOS 1n60.

(maybe I am crazy or maybe there is a slight error on the schematic, when I was taking voltages with only the charge pump IC in, I was not getting 18v at pins 7 of both CA3080s, but I was getting it at pin 6???)






#21
Really glad it is working for you!  Trouble shooting can be really frustrating.  I am trying to finish up my enclosure for a lowrider this weekend so I can box it up.  I'm really excited!!!

@Midway - I had an EA Trem once that would only act as a booster.  Took me a week of troubleshooting it like 5 hours a day to finally figure out that I had a bad SPST switch.  It always seems to be the little things.

-Dan
#22
I think if you clip or desolder that jumper in C12 it should work.  See this post for reference: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5622.msg48457;topicseen#msg48457

good luck!

-Dan
#23
Looks really cool!!!!  I hope you get this figured out soon.

-Dan
#24
I think these projects are always really cool.  But I have to wonder why not just build them into rack mounts or a separate chassis, so you could have several different pre-amps available to plug into a stand alone power amp?  It seems more cost effective to me.  Anyways, good luck I would love to see the results of what you decide to build.

-Dan
#25
Thanks Jacob!
#26
Open Discussion / Re: Pot quality. Alpha VS other...
August 30, 2012, 03:31:24 AM
I have four Bourns pots in my Epi Les Paul, 2 are push pulls.  Do they sound better than the Alphas that were in there before?  I dont notice it if they do.  BUT they feel way better.  Like going from driving a golf cart to a BMW.  Better taper, more smoothness in turning them, the push pulls activate easier and more smoothly.  All around they are great!  In a pedal I think I would only consider using them for either an expression pedal pot or some knob that was going to be turned by my foot alot, like a speed control on modulation effects.

my .02

-Dan
#27
General Questions / Honeydripper capacitor question
August 29, 2012, 10:19:20 PM
Hey guys, I did a quick search but did not find an answer for this.  I ordered some parts from mammoth, and got the Nichicon 'lytics.  They clearly say they are bipolar on mammoths site, but I did not notice that when I ordered. 

So will bipolar caps work in the 2u2 spots: C9, C10 and C11? 

I have normal polarized 'lytics for all the other ones.  My gut says it is no big deal, but I just want to double check before I solder.

Thanks!!!

-Dan
#28
@midwayfair - I think a lot of these sellers say they are germanium b/c the fv is similar and most people wont know the difference or check a data sheet.  I always wondered if you had a set of germanium and si diodes with the exact same fv how different they would really sound.  I would guess not a whole lot different, except maybe to people who have the "golden ears."  I unfortunately was not blessed with those ears lol.


@whitebread - That's good to hear that you liked them.  When I get around to my Greenbean I will definitely have them as one of the clipping options.

-Dan
#29
Just a heads up on those 1n60P diodes, I ordered some from futurlec a while back.  Well I really ordered 1n34a, but this is what they sent me.  They are not germanium, they are silicon schottky diodes.  Supposedly, they are a work alike for 1n34a diodes.  Mine averaged forward voltage of .27-.28.  Been meaning to use them in a muff or overdrive and see if I like them or not, but haven't done so yet.

-Dan
#30
Build Reports / Re: STM800 (BoobTube Twin)
April 04, 2012, 12:46:07 AM
more fenderish...dumble ODS based perhaps?

that would be way cool!