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Waterslide Laser decals?

Started by adam193, February 08, 2017, 06:39:12 PM

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adam193

Anyone using laser compatible waterslide labels?

Reviews are all over the place, don't want to fudge up my expensive laser printer..... (Printer does have a labels setting)

Any recommended brands?

AntKnee

I think Jimi uses them, but not positive. I'm an inkjet user, so I cant help much.
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

galaxiex

I got some Laser waterslide decal paper from a vendor on ebay....
Claimed it is the best....  ::)

It's ok.... but VERY thin and fragile.... IDK, maybe all waterslide decals are that thin?

With this decal it is a MUST to put a few clear coats on it before cutting and trying to apply the decal.

The first time I tried it with no clear coat it was sooooo delicate,
no matter how careful I was, I just could not get it on without damage.

It also took a long time to soak before the decal would slide.

I did manage to use it with some success, but I'd like to know if there is better out there...
Fear leads to Anger, Anger leads to Hate, Hate leads to Suffering.

Jebus

I've tried couple different ones for laser. The best I've tested so far I've bought from local arts and crafts shop. The brand is "Holi" and they are meant for scale models. The cost is ridiculous (like 5+ euros per paper or something like that).

All the no-name ones from eBay that I've tested so far are really hard to use. Either you need to soak it forever, or the laser "doesn't stick" when you apply clear coat / Envirotex or they rip up super easy and get wrinkled.

If someone know decent one from eBay let me know. :)

bcalla

I get mine here:  http://www.decalpaper.com/

They sell clear and white decals in various quantities & sizes.  If you buy their smallest quantity (25), clears are slightly < $1 each, whites are slightly > $1 each.

galaxiex

Quote from: bcalla on February 09, 2017, 08:22:13 PM
I get mine here:  http://www.decalpaper.com/

They sell clear and white decals in various quantities & sizes.  If you buy their smallest quantity (25), clears are slightly < $1 each, whites are slightly > $1 each.



How is the quality?
Any issues with fragility or bleeding from clear coat?

Thanks!  :)
Fear leads to Anger, Anger leads to Hate, Hate leads to Suffering.

jimilee

Quote from: adam193 on February 08, 2017, 06:39:12 PM
Anyone using laser compatible waterslide labels?

Reviews are all over the place, don't want to fudge up my expensive laser printer..... (Printer does have a labels setting)

Any recommended brands?
I use them with no issues. Use cold water to soak them in though. I get mine on eBay, I'll get the link for you, I need more myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

wgc

I've also used laser water slides without issue.  The key for me is to very lightly mist clear after printing, only 2-3 coats max.  The idea here is to prevent the solvents in the clear from making the toner run, but offer a little protection.

Too much and you get a "stiff" water slide that takes longer to separate from the backing.

Let it dry at least 24 hours, then clear your enclosure, again a mist coat or 2, then clear per usual.
always the beautiful answer who asks a more beautiful question.
e.e. cummings

bcalla

Quote from: galaxiex on February 09, 2017, 08:41:10 PM
How is the quality?
Any issues with fragility or bleeding from clear coat?

One time I had an issue with the toner bleeding, and I'm not sure what I did differently that time. 

Quote from: jimilee on February 09, 2017, 10:10:06 PM
I use them with no issues. Use cold water to soak them in though. I get mine on eBay, I'll get the link for you, I need more myself.

I always used warm water - I seem to remember that from building models as a kid.  Based on your post I decaled a pedal on Friday using cold water.  It seemed to settle in faster, meaning I had less time to futz around getting it lined up perfectly.  However, it also seems to have stuck better,  I might do it this way from now on.

stringsthings

I've been using laser decal paper from smallbear.  Sometimes, the decal stretches slightly
so things don't match up 100%.  But I think that's just the nature of the decal.
I've been using warm water; may try cold water next time.  I also mist coat the decal
and the enclosure before applying the decal.
All You Need Is Love

bcalla

Quote from: stringsthings on February 16, 2017, 01:40:58 PM
I've been using laser decal paper from smallbear.  Sometimes, the decal stretches slightly
so things don't match up 100%.  But I think that's just the nature of the decal.
I've been using warm water; may try cold water next time.  I also mist coat the decal
and the enclosure before applying the decal.
What do you "mist coat" the decal with?

sarde

I use Blinggasm brand clear laser waterslide from Amazon. But the decal paper reacts to spray clear coats and crinkles up (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=24961.0). I learned this the hard way. But if you put a light coat of shellac on the decal before clear coating then there are no problems.
Check out some of my projects over at https://pendragonguitarworks.wordpress.com/

Guava

The blinggasm is definitely temperamental when it comes to protective finishes.  I'm currently working out my system as sarde just referenced.  The application part is easy though.  Granted it's the only type of decal I have any experience with, but I'm not running into issues of stretching or tearing.  Very forgiving stuff as far as manipulating it.

TNblueshawk

Quote from: stringsthings on February 16, 2017, 01:40:58 PM
I've been using laser decal paper from smallbear.  Sometimes, the decal stretches slightly
so things don't match up 100%.  But I think that's just the nature of the decal.
I've been using warm water; may try cold water next time.  I also mist coat the decal
and the enclosure before applying the decal.

I've found the key to the decal not stretching is warm water and careful technique to back it off that backing. I inch them about 1/4" inch at a time off that backing and I rock from one side down to the other ever so slowly. All fingers on both hands are wet and dripping basically so as not to stick to the decal. I sort of push with thumbs and when I get maybe 2" off the backing I grab it and slowly start to pull at the same time I'm pushing with my thumb. I can't help but think the quality of the decal paper comes into play here big time.

I've tried cold water and the decal doesn't want to come off that backing as easy. Too hot and it makes it too pliable. Either way it will stretch. There is a happy medium. Clear backing ones are much more difficult than white backing decals.
John

stringsthings

Quote from: bcalla on February 16, 2017, 02:05:17 PM
Quote from: stringsthings on February 16, 2017, 01:40:58 PM
I've been using laser decal paper from smallbear.  Sometimes, the decal stretches slightly
so things don't match up 100%.  But I think that's just the nature of the decal.
I've been using warm water; may try cold water next time.  I also mist coat the decal
and the enclosure before applying the decal.
What do you "mist coat" the decal with?

Rustoleam clear coat.   I imagine any decent clear spray paint would work.
All You Need Is Love