It's actually 60.5 mm long. I will see, if I find the time for a new release. Changes would be:
- Relay board:
-- Move Cable connections to the side of the board, that points toward the inside of the enclosure
-- Create an eagle component, that allows for easy shielded wire connection (basically a hole to push the cable through, with a solder pad for the shield and another solder pad next to that for the inner wire)
-- Correct missing ground connections (result of a bug in fritzing)
-- Improve ground plane (Version 1 has ground fill, but eagle can do this much better than fritzing)
- Control board:
-- Add space for blocking caps
-- change design to load a complete nano (like I have done on my moebius controller and my taprecise design) - they are dead cheap these days and come with an USB port, so people can program their own software, update easily etc. Plus, I dont have to program and ship them.
-- use internal pullup resistors in the Atmel processor (and get rid of the 17 10k resistors) - this requires inversion of the switch logic in the program code, though...
-- Correct missing ground connections (result of a bug in fritzing)
-- Improve ground plane (Version 1 has ground fill, but eagle can do this much better than fritzing)
-- Add a Midi-Port. It's not hard to do in Arduino to send out static Midi program changes on events. And I might want to add a Line6 HX Stomp to my board somewhen in the near future...
Other:
- Change drill template, so the jacks are more far away from the relays
- Add little board for footswitches and LED
- Add a solid-state-relay based mute function (mute the output for 10 ms while switching)
- Add a third bank and a tri-color-LED for a total of 21 presets
- Skip the "Write" button. Store presets by holding respective program button down for three seconds. Downside: Program change will happen on the release of a button (because only then the system will know, that the button has not been pressed long). Alternative: Enter write mode by holding down the bank switch for three seconds.
- Add an input buffer
- Enhance one or two loops with a "trails" feature (for delays or reverbs), with phase invert option.
- Add a Tuner out/Mute button
- Bypassable, galvanic separation of Loop 7 or 8 for use with two amps
- Move Jacks for Input, send, return and output to the (audio) side of the looper (adjust the audio PCB accordingly). Depending on how you build it, this could be either left or right. Potentially reduces the need for an additional patchbay on the board.
- Mute on Tap Tempo Longpress
- external access to usb port
I should mention, that none of these is crucial and that version 1 works very well.
