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The Roger Mayer Voodoo Vibe is a Uni-Vibe style phaser with options like that, but implemented with a digital LFO that can be "bent" in the analog. There are diy version, one is called "Pangea."

They don't give enough info to guess what is inside. Could be totally passive, 3pole footswitch. Could have buffers, relays, etc. They have seperate versions that have a booster inside. To create a poor man's "down and dirty" version that does the exact thing you take a 3 pole footswitch.
One pole sends either the Electric (post distortion pedals) or the acoustic to the "Send" jack. Pole two sends the "return" to either the "guitar amp" when the elctric is engaged or the "DI" for your acoustic. Some folks might not even need this pole, might want both instruments to go to the same amp, many variations, that could be switched.  Or adding a seperate "mute" footswitch. The third pole on the switch would give two different LED colors or something.... Or leave the LED out and just use a two pole switch, no need for power...

Might be worth a try to socket the LDRs: many will work, they are not in parallel to fixed resistors so the slope is more important,  you might hear something...
...And try the phaser caps (4 of them) as there is lots of discussion of different configurations (MXR phase 90, voodoo vibe, etc.)

The bulb is lighting, I have a light shield that comes off.
I am powering it with an 18v adaptor, no charge pump.
Remember it worked for the first year, not likely a mistaken part value...
I used the default value for the speed limit. It won't start anymore, hasn't for weeks.  Its not a matter of the speed being too high, knob has no effect.
Maybe Q 11, 12 or 13... I thought of trying a darlington before because I thought the bulb could have been brighter, never tried. I was hoping for greater dark/light contrast....
Cripes, I plugged it into check voltages on the transistors and .... it is working again. Thanks guys.

I built a Harbinger One last year, actually two. I had an intrmittent issue with the LFO locking up now and then, where I could get it going again by turning the rate knob. Now it won't get going ever. I used the LED, it lights up, the trimmers have no effect. Any ideas?

Just to clarify: the effects loop is a great idea and works well. It is a super handy mod in an envelope filter circuit. The question is what is the ideal impedance/level situation?

As to jacks, I am using a BB tall box so I can fit the four jacks on the "north" side of the box.

I am experimenting with the same thing, an effects loop in the Naughty Fish. Its still R4...
Any thoughts about additional components and how to switch this? I have tried the breadboard it seems like its better to keep R4 at the output (send) side, and that its good to have some kind of "pad" or trimmer on the way in. Too much gain on the fuzz in the loop causes oscillation (whistling) and the pot helps with this. I have not had to add in/out capacitors. The MeatSphere has one after, on the return side (10uf).

Is the place for a buffer or anything? Why a cap on the way back but none on the way out?

+1 on the tricolor LEDs. Use pots on the breadboard to tune the color, then pick CLRs accordingly. You get nice shades. Combine this with extra poles on switches and the status LED changes color to show mode.

Did you try different switches? Usually a "too long" tap will come out as zero, but "funky" tapping implicates the switch. Only thing you haven't subbed....

I am thinking of replacing the "boost' control on my Current Lover with a trimmer (I found the best setting for this) and then adding a mix control. On my deluxe EM moving the mix trimmer to the outside of the box makes it a much more useful effect.

Where would I do this? Add a 10k pot in series with R15?
On the DEM it is 5k on the emitter of Q1, where the Current Lover has a 10k resistor.

It looks like the DEM mix trimmer could have DC on it, but I do not experience crackle when adjusting it. But I did have to readjust the
Feedback trimmer when I put the pot in because the mix trimmer is before the feedback.

Thanks Scruffie...
I found a 1k in place of the 10k collector resistor on the booster. And reflowed. It is behaving itself more normally now, the pitch bending is under 1/2 step.

I should maybe add: I am using mn3007.
My 4013 is a 4013BE, not 4013BCN

I just built a CurrentLover. It fired up fine and flanges. I have two questions:
1) the modulation seems really deep. At minimum range it is a good half step and at maximum it is an octave(!) Is this normal? Would I get a more mellow range by changing a resistor in the LFO somewhere? R25/R26?

2) I got a pretty extreme volume drop, even with the attached "LPB" circuit. The volume was fine up to the junction of R15/R16/R17. It seems like R 17 and C10 make a low pass filter and cut the volume after the wet and dry are mixed. I tried lifting R17 and taking the output right there (junction of R15/R16) and the problem was gone without using the "LPB" booster stage. Wouldn't that be a likely place to fine-tune the output level and deal with the Mistress' common volume drop complaint?
On my Deluxe EM I put a trimmer on what would be R8 on this schematic, giving a little more gain before the BBD. This wired but is touchy to avoid clipping the delay.

I am noting the resistor values in that final booster are different from an LPB. Is this to give a more moderate gain range?

So we still like the sound of the ca3260e better.
A little more on the pops: they only happen when volume is on maximum, at two points on the "cut" side of the treble control. I can also park the treble in the danger zone and get the pop by sweeping the volume back to full.

I have found out that the pedal only does this when it is plugged into another high impedance pedal: BYOC reverb,  Boss reverb/delay (even bypassed the buffer makes the popping happen)  FA-1 clone, a tremulous lune clone etc. My ampeg scrambler also pops with it, and it has a 1M input impedence.
The popping does not happen when the pedal goes into a fuzz face, or a rangemaster or a LPB or a simple MOSFET booster. (I thought that was high Z, maybe I added a too-small pull down resistor...)

Maybe next step is to breadboard a different kind of output buffer. I really like the OD with Baxandall tone control.

Good question. Thank you!
I was using a mosfet, CA3260. When you asked I put in a 4558 and the problem went away. What was it?