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I spent some time and made a clickless true bypass system like the others discussed here. I use it in my pedals and don't expect to sell it commercially like Jack.  But if you want a few, let me know and we can work a deal.  Cheapest is to buy the pic, you make the board and circuit.  Next is to buy the pic and my board and you assemble with your parts. Most expensive is the assembled full kit.  It works very nicely in churches which is where I play most.  My system also mutes the effect while switching so any high-gain pedals don't "pop" anymore (and you don't hear "Pop, pop, pop" when you delay is on). Search you tube for DC Pedals to see/hear it.  Even my compressor switches silently while cranking riffs through it.

There is also a CMOS TTL chip version available in this forum (use the search).  You have that option too, but it is a little larger than the pic solution.

I built both and kept both.  The Black is brighter, clearer and cleaner ... a great country tone.  The Burst is more like a TS, but not as much midrange.  I prefer my Clay Jones TS clone over the Burst.  The Black version is on my board and I use it each time I play.  If I were you, I'd build both ... then you have both   Also, I put a 10K resistor across the outside lugs of the 5K tone pot (makes a 3.3K pot) to tame the highs on the Black version.

For others desiring to do the same, here's what I did.  Keep in mind I don't like much compression, I'd rather use my hands/pick to control my attack and volume.

I socketed R10 and R8.

I used these values for bass guitar.
changed C1 from 47n to 100n.
changed R10 from 1.5K to 15K
changed R8 from 220K to 68K

This produced less compression and about the same amount of gain.

For guitar (and I haven't done this yet) I will set R10 to 22K or so and R8 to 47K or so.

Thanks for the inputs.  I think I understand.  I think I can also mess with R3 (decrease for more dry signal) and R10 (increase for less compression).  I'm finishing my Ross clone now and will experiment with the Cupcake after I button up the Ross.  I'll report back with some observations.

I finished a cupcake and it sounds as expected (very good, but too compressed for me).  I'd like to either adjust for less compression and/or blend the original signal with the compressed signal using set-and-forget internal trim pots or components in sockets or the unused opamp in the 4558.  The sustain trimmer does not change the compression much, just makes it sound better/worse.  Any suggestions?  Also working on a Ross/Keeley clone.  Maybe just stick with that circuit?
Thanks, Doug

I reduced R14 for more bass, from 15K to 3.3K i think.  Used a socket and kept reducing the value till I liked it.

Just wanted to add a bit on the diodes.  I tried the small bear NOS Ge (they say are 1n34as) and 'real' 1n34as. They sounded very different.  The 'work alike' diodes were way too harsh.  The 'real' 1n34as were much like 1n270s but just a bit more compressed.  I left the 'real' 1n34as in for my next gig.

I built the Ego Driver, Slow Loris, Broomstick, Krankosauris and others.  I have most of them on my board still.  The Ego and Krank are similar, but different.  If I only had one, I'd pick the Ego every time.  It just sounds better to me on both solos and rhythms.  Also the Krank has an SHO in it too and is a different layout.  That's why I built the Broomstick (which I used Krank values).

I changed C20 from 100n to 56n.  Worked for me.

Here's a quick update for anyone who reads this thread.  I was looking for a smooth, clean octave up.  My squeeker was too gritty and did not decay very well.  I experimented with several options and here are my thoughts.

Matched components - the following components need to match, measure them before you install. R6&R7, R8&R9, R10&R11, C2&C3, D1&D2.  Otherwise, it won't sound "right."

Fuzz mod - I added a 10uf cap in parallel with R4.  This produced a great fuzz octave with a large increase in gain/volume.  You can add a series pot with the cap to control gain, and/or a volume on the output of Q3 to control volume.  I took all this out since I wanted a cleaner octave, but it did have a nice sound.

I swapped the transistors with others, but that had minimal affects.

Diodes - I tried all the diodes I had.  Turns out I like a matched set of old 5mm red LEDs.  The break-up and decay was smoother than all the others.

So for me, matching the rectifying section and changing the diodes made the difference between the pedal sitting on my shelf, or my pedal board.  It's on my pedal board.  Yay!

They are both pretty easy and cheap.  Why don't you build both and keep the one YOU like best?  BTW, I like my SHO very much.  Crystal clear ... just what I wanted.

Looking to build a clean octave pedal ... similar to the ZVex Johnny Octave ... but switchable either one octave up or one octave down.  I prefer to buy a pcb, not etch my own, and I'm really slow and messy on perfboard.  Any suggestions?

Looks like I'll make a buy from Futurlec.  Thanks for the recommendations.

I also found a Hong Kong supplier on ebay that ships in lots of 10 pairs for about $20 shipped.  Anyone have  experience with buying chips from Hong Kong?

Looking for a reasonable source for the BAT41 or a suitable sub from small bear.  Mouser wants $5 to ship a few diodes.  Looks like the fwd v-drop of only .45v is what makes the BAT41 unique.  Any suggestions?  Or shall I just suck-it-up and pay Mouser.
Thanks!