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Just finished this little cabinet.  1x12 Eminence CV75 inside.  I let the kids pick the covering and grill cloth.  I never built a speaker cabinet before so I'm happy it came out nice.

Sorry for your loss indeed.

I just had a close friend take his own life less than 2 weeks ago so I am no stranger to your pain. Hang in there.

That's crazy, so did I.  Tragedies like these ought to put things in perspective.

Good news- I already did those continuity tests so I actually figured something out on my own.  I didn't find anything but I just double checked and found the little jumper on the boost switch depended on where I put the probe.  So I resoldered the bad lug and SUCCESS!  It sounds better now than I even remembered.

Thanks for the project and the help getting it going.  I still have to add the knobs but here's a sneak preview...

Busy.  Family get together and I had to play the bagpipes at a funeral.  Good day though.  Hope everyone else had a good one too.

Here is a new pic after I revised the wiring to match artstomp's diagram.  Upon further review, there is actually some barely audible signal coming through on bypass if I crank the amp all the way and also on drive channel alone.  The boost channel seems fine and boost plus drive seems fine.

I checked and the tip lugs on the jacks aren't making contact with the enclosure.  Just for kicks I tried disconnecting the ground wire from the output jack sleeve to the switch (because I usually only ground the input jack sleeve) and the problem persists.

Unfortunately, when I switched my test box out of the old cigar box into an old pedal enclosure I didn't get the audio probed hooked up so it's not at my disposal right now.

I have to bump this because I've been staring at this thing and it seems like it should work, but it doesn't. Any fresh eyes to help me fix it?

I have the 888 (the older style one, not the 888D) and I've found it very nice to use.

So, I switched the wires to match artstomp's diagram.  Ran the green wires to the tips and added white ground wires from the center 3dpt lugs to the sleeves.    I still get no bypass signal.  I also don't get the drive channel by itself.  The boost side works fine and the boost+drive works.  I checked both switches with DMM and they have continuity where they should.  Not sure what to check next.

Ok.  So, go to the tip instead of the sleeve and add ground wires from the center pins to the sleeves.  I'll give it a whirl.  Oh, and I like how you matched the colors of my randomly selected wire! 

Jason has been assisting me with boxing up my Voxy Brown but I've got a problem I thought I throw out to everyone.  I've got it boxed up and I believe I followed his wiring diagram. 

The LEDs work but I have no sound, even in bypass.  Yes, it worked before boxing. 

I wasn't sure if I had the correct lug on the in and out jacks connected (they're not labeled on the diagram) so I switched them and that didn't work either.  One way I get a buzz and the other way I get nothing.

I took a picture if anyone can help me out.  I suspect it's something simple that I'm missing.

I've got my eye on an auction but it's pick up only in Manhattan so... longshot, maybe some kind soul who lives there would help me get it and ship it out to me for a small sum.

Those of you who have built the 5F1, how's the head room on that?  Can you get a nice clean tone before it breaks  up?

I haven't built one (yet ), but I've played a couple: Like almost every tweed circuit, it gets to about 4 on the dial before it starts to distort and doesn't get much louder after that, and perhaps 3 before there's noticeable distortion on a hard chord (keep in mind that early Fenders are also 30% audio tapers! So 3 is more like 5 on a modern 10% taper). It's not super loud at that point; louder than an acoustic, but certainly reasonable. The 5E1 has a bit more range on the dial, but the total volume isn't appreciably different. BUT it can take a larger INPUT signal before it distorts because it doesn't have a cathode bypass. So the 5E1 is better for hotter pickups for headroom. But you're not going to be overdriving the first tube by much if at all regardless without a boost.

I'm still in the process of buying parts for my build. I ran across this power transformer, which is a "big iron" for a champ: http://store.triodestore.com/40-18031.html. Those transformers have gotten good reviews across a lot of sites. Anyway, that transformer will put out a few more Watts when running a 6V6, but you can also wire it to run a 6L6 instead and get a lot more headroom. I'm really on the fence about getting it, because I look at it and say, "Hey, those all sound like good things for my playing!" Buuuuut ... then I remember the whole purpose of the project. The champ is made for two things: A practice amp (clean at really low volumes), and an "ow what are you doing to me" amp at somewhat low volumes. You can't expect a single 6V6 to do much beyond that.

Oh, and based on plugging a couple different types of champs into 12" speakers, and confirmed by Morgan and others: A 12" speaker is awesome with a champ circuit, especially for a little perceived headroom (i.e., pure volume before you get distortion).

So you're putting yours together off a schematic rather than building a kit, correct?  I was looking at kits since I'm not nearly as far along on the electronics knowledge road as you are but I might consider doing it from scratch if I can follow a decent road map.  There's so much good information on here.

Those of you who have built the 5F1, how's the head room on that?  Can you get a nice clean tone before it breaks  up?

As a guy who usually likes to minimize his chances for surprises and failures, I'd normally agree with stencils, jigs, etc. that would improve consistency, accuracy and repeatability.  But, if I understand anything about calligraphy (and I'm not saying I do), I think it's an art that's more about the hand-drawn brush strokes and the subtle nuances that would suffer in the stencilling process.

Good to know.  I'm planning to build a P19 soon.