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Hi everyone!
I haven't been here in a long time but I did want to check in with something I found out about the Dragonbeard Jr, this also applies to the original Dragonbeard.
R13 on the schematic (last resistor at the output) shows 1K1 (1100 ohms) but the actual Expandora uses an 11K resistor here at this position.
I was having a lot of trouble with the original Dragonbeard, where the sound would get quieter the harder the guitar is played. The LEDs for the four modes would also start to flicker. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, I compared with an actual Expandora and found that difference. I also took out all the flashy LED circuitry to make the Dragonbeard an exact clone of the Expandora. Now the Dragonbeard acts and sounds like an actual Expandora.
I don't know if anyone else had a similar problem or if it's been discussed here before but I thought I'd add my two cents here.

Ok, I found a schematic that uses a LM311 with the SAD1024 for the 35kHz clock. See attached. The only difference I see is 50K trimmer, 47pf instead of 22pf and a 10k resistor on the output of the 311 to "VR". I don't know if that 10k really is necessary though. Maybe this reply is better suited for your other post...

35kHz clock noise isn't going to be a problem for you unless you have Lindsey Wagner ears! Lol!
All you should have to do is adjust the time constant of the LM311 to get down to 30-35kHz. Unfortunately, I'm not well versed in how the 311 works in this application...

IIRC, the charge pump is to get -9 volts, NOT to make 18 volts. The 1044, did you use the "S" spec? If you didn't, there will be  a whine present. Pins 1 & 8 also need to be jumpered with the 1044, but NOT the 1054.
When working properly, you shouldn't get a charge pump whine with the Glass Hole, but you may get a LFO "tick tick tick" sound. There are ways to get around that also. Look in the troubleshooting section.

I really didn't notice much difference in the setting of that trimmer... So I just left it in the center or thereabouts

Hey LaceSensor... A quick question about this pedal. I get a lot of artifacts in "ring" mode that sound like static. This happens when the sound decays of what's being played. Kind of sounds like a noise gate type thing, when no sound is going through the pedal, it's absolutely quiet - no static sounds. Also when actively playing, no staticy sounds either, just when notes are decaying... Is this normal?
One more thing, this doesn't happen at all in "octave" mode, just "ring" mode.
Thanks for your time.

I took it to a friend's house today for him to run it through its paces. This thing can do some neat-o sounds! The tube drive is nice also as it adds grit/dirt to the "wet" signal. Sounds close to a tape echo, very nice indeed...

If I built it again I would leave it out, the levels are well matched but I didn't know this going into the build.

Guts.

DEFX makes some really great clones/remakes of old, expensive and hard to obtain pedals.
The mail carrier just came by and dropped off the DPDT momentary foot switch I needed to finish this one off...
The Echodrive Red is a PT2395 delay that is digital but sounds kind of analog. It has a 12AX7 configured as  pre and post gain stages... The nice thing about this tube based pedal is that it doesn't use wimpy non tube voltages like 12, 24 or 30 volts... It drives the tube with around 190 volts on the tube! All this in a pedal!
20-30 repeats is easy for this pedal and there is a "slam" switch that not only makes the pedal go into oscillation, it also modulates the delay time for a really great sounding effect.
This build was involved but the documentation is great and everything well explained.
I did a couple of deviations from the instructions... First, this pedal has two regulators... A 5 volt and a 12 volt. The 5 volt regulator input feeds off the output of the 12 volt regulator which I don't really care for... In the past I've had instability problems when feeding one regulator off the output of another. Basically, I butchered a trace that fed the input of the 5 volt regulator and ran a wire to it from the raw DC supply. I also dont like big value caps (1000uf) on the outputs of regulators, it's a recipe for blowing a regulator... So I changed a few things around on the power supply.
This uses a 12vac power supply input and rectifies it for the low voltage section of the pedal and this pedal also uses a small torroidal transformer in reverse to get the high voltage needed for the tube. Ingenious design!
I'd like to thank Dino for making this available. This was an expensive project but much more do-able than buying an original, which goes for crazy money.

I'm glad you're feeling better.

Inside:

Hi everybody!
Just finished this one. Great documentation, great quality board but it took a while as it's a pretty involved build. I had to troubleshoot once built because the toggle switch was defective... That was a pain to change out... My fault because I didn't check the switch before I installed it.
Anyway, this thing makes a lot of weird noises, the ring modulator is a good one though.
As always, the cosmetics on mine are extremely minimalist!

Hi David,
By chance will you be restocking the out of stock boards on your site? I hope so.

Hi Everyone,
I bought some PCBs from Effects Layouts and one of them was the Truth Bender which is basically a clone of the Fuzz Bender. For a modern fuzz, the Fuzz Bender is great! It has the sounds of a Tone Bender style 60s  germanium fuzz with the added versatility of very effective tone controls and a "bias" control that sets how sputtery you want the fuzz to sound.
I also have an original Fuzz Bender and had to take it apart to find out what specs the Ge transistor inside has.
It's an NPN Japanese Ge transistor with a hfe of around 117 and a leakage of 1.08ma! You read that right, 1.08 milliamps! So this is a great project for all those leakey trashcan bound transistors.
The two silicon transistors have an hfe of 150-200 each. It tried a couple of 2N3903s with an hfe of around 50-60 each in these locations and the 150-200 hfe transistors sounded better.