Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - danfrank

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19
Open Discussion / Re: JFC USPS
« on: October 24, 2021, 01:04:30 PM »
DeJoy is my hero!!!

Build Reports / Re: Lectric FX Flintlock Flanger A/DA Clone
« on: October 15, 2021, 08:21:18 PM »
Put a resistor/LED on pin 3 of the "RANGE" pot and ground. I use a Tayda 3mm green or blue LED and a 30K resistor so the LED doesn't load down the LFO op amp.

Open Discussion / Re: what tubes bugera v55(non-pedal)
« on: September 26, 2021, 07:01:07 PM »

Somewhat hilariously, NASA's soldering instructions being with removing the gold coating from whatever you are working with.

That is correct, gold disolves in the molten solder and makes an alloy with it. This new alloy with the gold is quite brittle and cracks easily, especially with vibration. This is why NASA forbids using gold plated PCBs, anything for that matter...

In all honesty, I don't know why PCB manufacturers use gold plating, it's not good. It certainly looks pretty but in my opinion, it opens up more problems than benefits.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Glasshole bypass LFO tick
« on: September 22, 2021, 07:27:08 PM »
Dan -

Ah - I wired it up wrong the first time - never lifted pin 2 out of the socket (among other mistakes with the resistor and at pin 5).   Thanks for the explanation and pic - that helped.   I connected it up properly and the result is as you expected - the tick tock is now completely gone!! 

One more thing but I think you have already realized this... Pin 5 of the LM324 remains grounded, so it stays as is, no modification to pin 5. Only pin 2 gets lifted off of ground by the 68k resistor.
On that pdf article, I think the referenced drawing is using a single supply where as the Glass Hole uses a split supply. That may cause confusion for some.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Glasshole bypass LFO tick
« on: September 22, 2021, 07:15:20 PM »
Sorry for a hijack here - Dan, did you replace the single turn trimmers on your Glasshole with multi-turn trimmers? Those kind of look like Bourns 3266w? Did you need more precision, or?


I used the 10 turn trimmers because that's what I had on hand. This project is pretty easy to dial in. Set the brightness trimmer (1k) about halfway. The offset is the important one... Set the depth pot all the way CW, Feedback CCW and rate fairly slow so you can see the full "sweep" of the LED by the LDRs. Of course this has to be done in close to complete darkness so it helps to have a light on your multimeter. Set the "offset" trimmer (10k) so the LED gets very dim (almost off) but not all the way off. Then you can tweak the two trimmers to taste. I found that adjusting the offset so the LED doesn't turn all the way off is very important.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Glasshole bypass LFO tick
« on: September 22, 2021, 02:34:54 PM »
Yes, IC4-A. Too bad it didn't work for you, it totally got rid of the  "tick tick tick" on my Glass hole. See attached pic on how I did it. 68k from ground to pin 2 of LM324 and 33nf between pis 1 & 2. Note that you have to take pin 2 of the LM324 out of the socket so it is no longer connected to ground. Pin 2 is now grounded through the 68k resistor. I also did what Madbean suggested and wire in and out jacks straight to the footswitch. I also shorted the traces on the PCB that originally went to the in and out jacks, since they aren't being used. I figured grounding them wouldn't hurt anything.
One more thing... The article you linked is the same one I was referring to but mine couldn't be downloaded, so thanks for linking it.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Glasshole bypass LFO tick
« on: September 22, 2021, 05:02:28 AM »
It's the sudden turn on of the op amp forming the square wave in the LFO. I think it's IC4-1 on the Glass Hole schematic. Take a look at the following link:

Look at figure 3, drawing 2. The addition of the 33nf cap and 68k resistor will solve the ticking problem of the Glass Hole. I have modded the Glass Hole the way the article describes and mine has no more ticking. Try it, you'll like it!

Open Discussion / Re: Speaker cab wiring, dual input amp head
« on: September 05, 2021, 08:11:21 PM »
Tube or solid state amps. Either way, I'd use a DPDT switch so you can switch between amps. If either is a tube amp you will have to use a power resistor to load the output of the tube amp when it isn't connected to the speakers. It's also a good idea to load a solid state amp if you're using one of those.
Good luck

BTW, and this is important... Amps do not like sharing the same load at the same time, you'll destroy your amps.

Build Reports / Re: For Jimi Lee... The Glass Bi-Hole
« on: August 31, 2021, 08:37:33 PM »
If you like the Bi-Phase, you really need to build one JimiLee. This thing is a lot more versital than the Bi-Phase with sounds.

Build Reports / Re: For Jimi Lee... The Glass Bi-Hole
« on: August 31, 2021, 08:33:21 PM »
Not my guitar... I just walked into a music store and told them to start playing through the pedal. Lol!

Here's a couple more videos. The following guy likes using the internal LFO on phaser "B" and the expression pedal on phaser "A":

Build Reports / Re: For Jimi Lee... The Glass Bi-Hole
« on: August 31, 2021, 05:25:20 PM »
With internal LFO set to fast:

Build Reports / Re: Tone Virus
« on: August 31, 2021, 05:10:34 PM »
Yeah,  really beautiful graphics. My TV doesn't work right because I think I installed the wrong type of on-on-on switch.
Please make a demo video so I know what it's supposed to do.
Great job!

Build Reports / Re: For Jimi Lee... The Glass Bi-Hole
« on: August 31, 2021, 05:08:37 PM »
Ok, here's the 1st video of this. The expression pedal is hooked up, it's working when both phasers are in sync but wasn't working in inverse mode here because the null pot on the expression pedal wasn't zeroed out.
I'll try to get some more videos posted soon.

General Questions / Re: Heads Up! Tayda LDRs ----- Waitrony KE-10720
« on: August 30, 2021, 03:00:04 PM »
Now Tayda sells two (2), count them, two types of LDRs:

All because of lil' ole' me! Lol!
It's funny, the ones they were calling KE-10720, they are now calling 5528, I guess as in GL-5528. The new LDR they are carrying is the Waitrony KE-10715. I just received some that they sent me and even though I haven't tested them yet, they do look like Waitrony LDRs. These should do nicely in optical phasers. I will report back.
Now let me say something about Tayda and their customer service... I let them know about the LDRs with the off specs and Tayda went above and beyond to make it right. They sent me the new type at their expense. They are a top notch company, I really appreciate what they did to make this right, so thanks Tayda!

Build Reports / Re: For Jimi Lee... The Glass Bi-Hole
« on: August 24, 2021, 04:43:42 PM »
It sounds neat-0!!
I had to work a couple of bugs out of it, with the switching and with the LEDs syncing with the LFOs.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 19