Messages

Nice build, Great clip!!!

Awesome builds!!! I like the appropriate centaur for the 1590a build

Great job!

just taking a stab in the dark. If your using a 1044 did you connect pins 1 and 8 to boost the oscillator frequency?

Among all the other things I want to build, I'd really like to do a Slow Gear.  Was doing some searching and am not finding anything real reliable.  GGG discontinued their board.  BYOC has a kit but not a standalone board.  I'd like to do a vero but I'd be open to buying a pcb.  Anyone built one and thoughts on it?  Or anyone ever try the Behringer clone?

I have built the ggg board using their either etchable document. You could get okeef on this forum to etch one for you, look on the buy/sell sub forum under "discontinued boards" for his contact info.

epic.
I want to know how to do this decalling thing.

Search "pulsar" on the forum. There a couple of threads with instruction and advise. Ian started the most resent one, you might try searching his most resents post.

came out fantastic!!!   great job 

Is c36 the power cap? I would be interest in seeing the other side of the board if you build another.

Craziness!!!!! So good!

great looking build. Etch is awesome. I like the carbon comp resistors with the red pcb.

 

http://www.powder365.com/forum/index.php

If you hang out there for a bit you'll come to recognize the guys that are helpful with various real world techniques and troubleshooting and such.

+1 that's where i go to when i have a question, which is alot Super knowledgeable guys.

Not sure why he recommended a partial cure of the base coat -- on the boxes that I've clearcoated, I sprayed the base color and fully cured, then applied the graphics . . . then the clear powder coat. 

This is one of those things were not everyone agrees. "The idea here is that the basecoat will soften as it is reheated during the clearcoat cure cycle & promote better "crosslinking" between the base coat & clear coat. I personally fully cure basecoats before applying clear & have not experienced any issues with crosslinking."

"Crosslinking" is the bond created between 2 coats of powder during the cure cycle. Without it, there is nothing holding the 2 layers together & they will separate from eachother at some point, causing coating failure. This failure is called delamination.

I'm not sure if this is the reasoning pulsar recommends it.

Might be a good idea to do a test sample with a piece of scrap metal.  Like I mentioned, I found red colors to be 'bleeders' when clear is applied (white graphic turned pink) but a few other colors didn't bleed at all.

+1 on the samples. I've had them turn pink with gloss black base and true flat clear.

Awesome. I'll use an old lid I have laying around to test it out, should I decide I want to clear coat.

aluminum beer bottles work well to.

Great job. I like the beehive do you have a list of all the 1590a's you have built, just out of curiosity.

check out Jon's build report. He gives some commentary on a few compressors.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=6794.0