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I've built several mkIII varients and to me they all sound very similar.Y


you could get similar sounds with any of them because the filter control has got a good deal of range. a few had rather low output.(comercial skinpimp 3knob versions.) I have had a few skinpimp 4knob custom mkIII's and those had plenty of output. I've built jimmybj's mkIII in the member project. and a couple pastyface versions, and slew of tagboard and vero builds and they are all in the same ballpark. more grit and grind than a ff and smoother and more refined than a mkI or MKII. It's far and away my favorite fuzz design.

I think your pickups and transistors will have a good deal to do with the sound you get. Try breadboarding the circuit 1ST. always a good way to go with ge fuzz's. You can work out any changes that need to be made for biasing or tone before traumatizing your pcb with desoldering.

I've done the trem lune and the phaser fluer. the phaser is awesome if a little bit of a pain to bias but worth the effort. does a great unvibe tone. standard phaser sounds and some crazy extreme settings as well and they both are highly modable. instructions could be clearer but as long as you arent a total beginner they shouldn't prevent a successful build. the have art work for etching your own boards and their fabbed boards are high quality. I'm building a fully loaded phaser from them at the moment and will post a build report when I get done

The codes on your wimas  look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf.  I had a hard time understanding them at first.  basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.

Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.

Sorry, but you're off with the capacitor codes.  u1 = 0.1uF, K = 10% tolerance, 63 = 63V.

I stand corrected

u1=0,1uF , isn´t it?

And can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?

Ok, i´ll try but it´s difficult with the mounted pots.

Thanks for reply

1uf boxs caps are a lot bigger than that and would still be the wrong value

Also I've never seen a zener diode that looks like that the ones I usually get are the orange glass types.

The codes on your wimas  look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf.  I had a hard time understanding them at first.  basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.

Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.

c15 appears to be the same and c5 looks like a .022 instead of .220. I am gonna check the codes to be sure.

It looks like you have a .001uf for c11 instead of.100uf that's the 1st thing I saw I'll keep looking. and can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?

everything but the wah is diy ehh? they all look very classy together, very handsome. you should be proud.

have you bought from them? how's their shipping time/cost and (physical) quality of resistors?

havent tried the resistors yet but 4300 1% resistors for under $30 bucks sounds great. their copper clad, vero, perf, and IC sockets and pin headers are fantastic. I received my orders in usually 3 days. they are the only place I found that supplies vero big enough for some of the crazier vero layouts I've seen. they have a new wider gauge vero that would make things easier for guy's with beginning soldering skills.

If it weren't for all the useless values I would agree its a good deal.

Jacob

don't know what your talking about. the more complex stuff I build the more I seem to need those "useless values"

DEAL OF THE CENTURY! These guys sell some really great vero board in massive sizes for complex projects.
check 'em out

http://www.veroboard.com/86x50pcs-e12-1-14watt-full-range-resistor-kit-p-209.html

pretty cool where can one find the schem?

yeah they are! that will ruin your day.

did you socket the transistors or solder them? ge transistors are very easy to cook. is there any excessive noise? what package type are the transistors. the european black glass ones have a red dot to locate the collector. the metal can types from the us usually have a tab denoting the emitter.

Here is a Sabertooth I built for my brother-in-law as a birthday gift. He is a great bass player and huge Frank Zappa fan so he is going to be stoked 

Added the impedence control (i.e. mastotron) to make it more versitile for him. He has too many basses to count so he needs a versitile pedal. BTW: this thing sounds pretty cool on my guitar as well

The guts are a bit sloppy but 5 pots, 9v, and battery was a good bit of wire to deal with.

ZAPPA! that's awesome!!