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What are the differences between a Sunking II board and a Sunking 2015 board?
I cannot find the build doc for the Sunking II but I have the build doc for the Sunking 2015.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

Does anyone know where I can find the build docs for this board?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I have had this board for at least 3 years. It was actually given to me by JD as thanks for shipping a kit back to him that he had inadvertently sent to my address. I had read about it a lot on forums and such and how it is a pain to build and get working well. I waited as long as I could, lol. I wanted to get my wiring a little neater on other builds before I tackled the tons of wires this thing needs.
I used CLM6000 optocouplers in the end. I tried the H11F3 and the H11F1 also. The H11F's just did not sound as good. The filter seemed to have a very fast open and shut. I wanted a smoother and longer sweeps. I used a 10 turn 10k trimmer for Rx and made a little daughter board for it. I also used solid wire. A first for me. Orange LED with a bit of a tapered hole to show a little of the bare aluminum.
It took quite some time to get Rx dialed in to sound good on all three filter settings. But, in the end, it sounds great.
One glitch. the gain pots rotation is backwards, but that is an easy fix.
I have been looking for a reason to use one of these Hex shaped hammond enclosures for a while also. This one was going to be for a 2 in 1 but this is a much nicer fit. I bought the factory finished textured black. Now, I need to figure out how to label it. I may bring it to a laser engraver.
Thanks for looking.





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Here is my serendipity build. I built it to madbean specs with a opa2604 opamp. Sounds great. I have tried a few opamps including tl072/ 4558D/ LF353 and I like the 2604 best at the moment with the 4558D coming in second.


Props to haberdasher for the excellent board. This was my first build using an etch board. Worked well and no troubleshooting needed.

Labels are some small vinyl stickers I found at hobby lobby. I cleared over them a bit.

Here is a photo.



And a gut shot.




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Just a simple vanilla boost.
Used vero layout from IvIarks compact layout.
All stock. I may or may not label the pedal. The guy I built it for likes all of his pedals to look generic.
Anyone have any luck clear coating a powder coated enclosure?
I ran out of jacks today and waiting for delivery of a new lot.
I love that my wiring is getting neater with every build.




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Built this Katana Boost using IvIark's rev 2 layout. Works great. Had one resistor lead in wrong hole and had two shorted input jacks that gave me fits. I couldn't figure out how my input was being shorted.
I was going to use a small wedge type hammond enclose but I had this one laying around from a ross comp I built and the output jack and full size pot were to close and were shorting. I had labelled the Ross with a sharpie and so I just went at it with some sandpaper and removed the silver metallic and primer from the edges and removed all my sharpie markings. I went with the worn out look. I didn't use a pot with a switch cause I needed to fill the other hole in the enclosure.
I went with the older beat up knob in the end to match the theme. lol
Here are some pics




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DVerb that I just finished tonight. I bought the kit from GGG cause I felt lazy and don't mind sending some dollars JD's way when I can.
This is the newly released version of this board. I had wanted to build one years ago when he discontinued the first run.
No real issues. Jumpers are traces (no jumpers needed. But, JD did send me some nifty 0 ohm resistors to use if I wanted. lol
Worked straight away minus me burning up a led with to much heat(I think). I chose a metallic rubbed bronze paint. No primer and no clear. Nothing special or really that cool. I used a orange led but in the photos it looks more yellow. I like the orange against the dark brown bronze.

Sounds great and is dead quiet.

Here are a few pics.







Thanks for looking.


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I was on JD's website the other day and noticed he had a new layout and kit for the D-Verb.
I have been wanting to build one of these for a while and so I ordered the kit. I usually just buy pcb's and source my own components but I just felt like building this soon and this would be the fastest way. Anuff back story. These little guys were in the kit and I cannot identify them.
Any idea? They both measure about 0.01 ohms.


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Anyone know of a mod to stop the crazy whine I get with my EHX Holy Grail Reverb?
It works fine in the effects loop of my tweaker15, but my vht special 6 head does not have a loop and it whines like crazy when in front of either amp.
Any ideas?

Anyone have a drilling template for two foot switches on a 1590BB orientated portrait? .
I am needing one for my multiplex build.
I of course have the template for the knobbies from Josh's excellent build doc. I am just trying to place the foot switches, power jack and 1/4" jacks.
Any help would be appreciated.

Happy Monday,

Do you guys use 1% or 5% resistors in your builds?
I have been using the 1% resistors but they are a tad more expensive at our local electronic surplus store.

Are the 1% resistors worth it? Do they make any noticeable difference in sound?

Thanks!

This is actually more of a rehouse than a build report but what the heck.
Ross Comp I built on JD's GGG dyna/ross board and I must say it sounds fantastic. Very quiet and it has great sustain and bloom. I built it per his build docs.
Originally I had it in a 1590b and I put the input jack and pot to close together and it kept shorting out. I said the heck with that and bought a light gray 1590BB and did the layout more traditionally. Much better now. 1590bb is by far my favorite enclosure.

Original enclosure and rats nest (obviously the one in the middle):




Here is the new enclosure:





Graphics are a pic of a soaring Albatross I snatched from the web.
I did the top with some photo like sticker paper from Office Depot. After I stuck it to the enclosure I sprayed it with some of that ink binder crap you would use on a water slide decal. I then put 10-12 light coats of clear on it. I concentrated on the edges to try to bury them. I hope it lasts but this will return to my gigging board and if it gets f'd up its all good.
The guys are not pretty. My leads in left side of picture were a bit to short and the boards it's a little crooked. I still need to put some double sides tape on pots and stick the board down.
Cheers,
Rob

I built this L-Pad attenuator yesterday. $15 8ohm/100watt L-Pad, a few $2 switches, jacks, couple of caps, wire from a broken computer power supply and a $5 aluminum enclosure.
I installed a true bypass switch on-off-on bright switch with a 4.7uf cap on one side and a 10uf cap. Both non polarized caps. All 18 gauge stranded wire. I haven't drilled holes for the venting yet but from my tests with my amps I will not need a fan. I wouldn't use this with anything over 15-20 watts.

I haven't decided on a paint job or decals yet. Any ideas?





I plan to use this with my vht special 6 head for very quiet bedroom levels (kids right above sleeping)
Tested last night and today and it works good. Worked just as well with a tweaker15 to be able to hit its sweet spot and not irritate the neighbors.
With the s6 it was very nice. I will be able to practice with a real amp instead of sims (don't own amp with headphone out)

Thanks for allowing me to brag.

Rob

I hope this is in the right place and hope it is cool to ask about a production pedal here.
Today I was given a TS9 RI that had been for a swim. Flood, sink, I don't know the story.
It has been dried and works well enough. I does have some dirt on the board. I will clean pots well with contact cleaner, but what about the board and components? Should I rinse it with distilled water and lightly take a tooth brush to it.
I plan on installing a socket for the Ic and doing the 808 mods.

Pics below.

Thanks

Thought some may be interested in this.


   
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Just finished my first madbean pcb build. Great quality board.
I have built 4-5 other pedals from ggg, etc.
Wiring is messy but it sounds excellent. That body switch has some serious juice. I love the flavors I can get with the fat knob (which I call "Range"). From sweet thin to extremely Fat.
Mostly stock with only a few value subs where I couldn't get the exact value at the surplus store here.
The paint was just thought up while I was doing it. and I used some foam letter stickers of my daughters for the masking of the EP.
I am trying to decide on knobs. which do you like?

I have a 500k reverse audio taper pot around here and was thinking of using it for this build.
I am just trying to save a few bucks.
Would the reverse audio taper pot cause any negative effect on the knob range, etc?

Also, I am having a hard time finding J201 transistors here in STL. We have a great parts store but they only have the NTE version of a J201. Will these work fine?

Thanks a bunch in advance.

I just need to get the voltage doubler and JFET's put in the sockets (as soon as I find some) and to box her up.

Has anyone built a weener as a fixed wah? I am thinking something like the mxr q zone or the rocktron sweet spot.
I currently have two CBs (not including my kids) wahs. One is a mid 90s and the guts of the other look older.
I ordered the weener pcb board and trying to decide if I should build the weener as the fixed wah or convert one of the CBs to a fixed wah.
looking for opinions.
I am happy with the sound of the CB that I currently use and I do use it as a fixed wah all the time.
I think the extra controls on the weener would be cool in a fixed wah. but, I am happy with the one pot I have on the CB now as a fixed wah. I just want to be able to go the a certain frequency without having to find it on the fly.

btw, I think this is my first post