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I'm having a problem with my quadrovibe build.  It distorts when I have my guitar's volume turned all the way up, but is clean when I roll the guitar volume back to about half way.  The effect works as it should other than this problem.  I have the same issue if I keep the guitar volume at halfway but have another pedal that adds gain in front of the quadrovibe.  It seems the input is overloading the circuit somewhere.  The distortion is the same no matter where I set the vol, intensity, or speed controls.  I assumed maybe I had the gain trim set too high, but it seems to do it no matter where the gain trim is set, so it must be happening earlier in the circuit.  I was thinking maybe I should try another j201 for q1?  I know they can vary quite a bit.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

I compared my nautilus to a friend's Mu-Tron III from the 70's and it sounded pretty close, but i found that the filter closed a bit slower on the nautilus no matter how i configured it.  Are there any tweaks I can make to change the sensitivity of the filter in this respect?  The best way i can describe it is that while the mutron would say oww, the nautilus would say ooow.  It would remain open longer and wouldnt clamp down quite as hard as it closed.  I know the input gain changes the sensitivity of the filter as well, but even after adjusting the gain on the pedal and the gain of the instrument, I still cant get it to react the same way as the mutron.  I'm wanting to use it specifically with a clavinet to get the sound on stevie wonder's higher ground.  The mutron nails the sound, but i cant quite get it with the nautilus.  It still sounds good, but not the same.  Maybe i am being too picky, but i think it's 90% there and i'm hoping that with a little tweaking, i can get it the rest of the way there.  Any help would be appreciated.

Does anyone have any experience with any of the diy mic pre kits out there, i.e. 51x, five fish, seventh circle, classic api, paia, etc.

I'm looking into building a 51x rack or buying an api lunchbox and possibly starting off with a couple of classic api vP26's. 

Has anyone tried to build one of these or anything from another source.

I'm putting together the dirtbag and ive populated the road rage for operation at 15v for the 3005 version and when i test the output of the roadrage, i'm getting 18.5v on the 15+ pad and i'm getting 14.9v on the 18+ pad.  I'm using an L7815CV regulator.  Is this normal? And if so, should i connect the 18+ output to the dirtbag instead of the 15+? 

Holy crap!  I just noticed the nautilus (mutron iii) listed on the projects page.  Thats really awesome.  Ive nearly bought the GGG board several times.  Now im glad i waited.  I'm totally stoked.

Is the L7815CV a suitable regulator for the road rage when used to power the dirtbag?  I see the dirtbag docs suggests the LM7815ACT.

Well, i dont mean to be a dirtbag, but i already have a few dumb questions regarding the dirtbag delay:

1.  I'm trying to figure out how im gonna get it into a 1590bb and i am having a bit of trouble figuring out where i can put the road rage board.  This thing is gonna be tight as it is. Also, im not sure if putting it in a certain area might cause unwanted noise, etc.  Would it be better to opt for a larger enclosure like a 1790ns or a 125bb for instance?

2. Will i need to use a dc jack with an external nut?  Because it looks like i may not have room for an internal one.  Maybe im wrong.

3.  If i mount the resistors on the back side of the board, should i have enough clearance to get everything in height wise?  I think my tallest component on the front of the board will be about 13mm.  I did an estimated measurement and it looks like it might barely make it.

I guess all these issues could be fixed by going with a larger enclosure, but i would like to make it as small as possible.

4.  I noticed my trimpots are too large for the board. (10mm). Are there certain trimpots that are recommended?  I have a few trims from tayda that seem like the right size.

Thanks for the help.

DS

I just got all my parts in for the dirtbag delay and i just noticed that on the prototypes there were some larger 1 or 1/2 watt resistors and a big 470uf electrolytic.   Those werent listed on the bill of materials so i'm assuming the new layout doesn't call for them? 

Here's my latest rangemaster using the fabbed board.  This pedal freakin' rocks!  It uses a single cv7003 transistor (OC44-alike).  



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Build notes:
-My current favorite method of decoration:  Black Sharpie
-I went a little crazy with the hot glue on the led.
-My one regret with this pedal is that i didn't make room for a battery.  The rangemaster sounds quite different when powered with a carbon battery and is what would have been used to power original rangemasters.  i have a battery clip fashioned with a 2.1mm plug that i can use when i want battery power though, so no worries.
-If you like sixties and seventies british tones i.e. Brian May, Richie Blackmore, Rory Gallagher, Early Clapton, Marc Bolan, etc., you should have one of these pedals. 

I just ordered several germanium trannies from byoc. This is the first ive dealt with them, but i figured id give them a try.  I will report back when i figure out if theyre worth a shit.  I see more fuzz pedals in my future. 

Here's my latest project.  His name is Bruce.

In honor of the birth of the new child I would like to give something away.


A Sunking PCB.  (the discontinued fabbed version)


Please allow me to answer a few inevitable questions:  No, I am not joking.  Yes, I am crazy.

I recently acquired this pcb in a trade with Jimmybjj and i will give it away to the member who can guess closest to what number i am thinking of from 1 to 100.  One guess per member.   I will announce the winner this coming Tuesday Sept. 13.  Good Luck.

Has anyone built any of the weber amp kits?  Im thinking about building a 5e3, but since i know jack crap about building amps, i may want to start with a champ or a reverb unit.  Ive used weber speakers and they are top knotch.  I have heard great things about the amp kits, but i dont want to invest the money if i'm gonna be in over my head.

i tried to order an egodriver and it said they are out of stock.  please tell me those aren't discontinued.  if not, are they expected to be back in stock soon?

Im about to start on the quadrovibe and i was wondering if i should wire the led to pulse with the effect or not.  If anyone has done it that way, is the delay when the effect is engaged an annoyance?  I honestly dont think it will be, but i would like to hear from someone who has tried it.

Also, should i socket the lamp?  It seems like i should so that it can be replaced if it burns out, but this is the first lamp build ive done, so there may be something i havent thought of.

Im thinking about this as a graphic for my Germanium Fuzzrite.  It's my Barry Lyndon theme.

Are all the projects that are on sale being discontinued, or just some?

This is not a madbean build.  It's actually a vero layout for a Rangemaster style treble boost similar to the Brian May Treble Booster.  It uses a BC182L transistor.  Sounds pretty good.  I built it for a friend who loves Rollerball and Brian May.

Here is my nearly completed deadpool build.  I was really excited when i saw this project.  i love the crazy sounds that os mutantes got out of their equipment and i read the article by claudio baptista on how to build it, but could not really understand what the hell he was talking about.  I have not finished soldering the wires or hooking up the led,  and i am waiting on the knobs i want to use from mouser, but here it is.  it is a really cool and unique sounding fuzz.  i really like it.  it can sound really fat and overdriven on some settings and really high treble fuzzrite-ish on others.  you can dial in all kinds of cool tones with it.  i am still experimenting with the transistors to see what i like the best in it.  i will report back with my findings.

This is a fuzzrite i built with a vero layout.  it is the first pedal i have done with a waterslide decal.  i really like them. i used testors clear.  i found it really easy to get good results.  i expected to screw it up several times before i got it right, but it went on well first try.  i put on about 5 coats of krylon clear afterwards.

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I recently got a few low capacitance multilayer ceramics with my last order from futurlec.  I figured I would try them out.  Does anyone have any experience with them?  Are they any different than standard ceramics?