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I have a GGG tuned muff/aka bluebeard muff for bass that I just don't care for. It's too overdrivey and gainey for me and I can't quite get the sound I'm going for. I also have a Pharaoh clone that I love for the softer/thicker/fuzzier sound. More sustain would be nice too.

I would like to mod my GGG tuned to get closer to that Pharaoh sound.

Any suggestions? I'm working through your post to get some specific ideas, but if you can think of anything off the cuff, please let me know. Remember, it's for bass guitar.

I'll def use some germanium clipping diodes and will put in a higher value for the emitter resistors. What else?

Has anyone used it on bass? How does it sound? Comparisons to the Nautilus? I've watched a bunch of videos but can't get a good sense on the differences.

Obviously, the Nautilus is deeper and fatter and wetter... just putting together a multi pedal for bass and thinking about putting in the Kraken as there will be room. But wondering if it's worth it or not. I don't need a Meatball--too complicated for on the fly-- but I also don't want a DOD 440-- which I found to be way to thin of a sound.

I am replacing a pot in my jazz bass but could only find the value I needed (50k push/pull) in a smaller sized shaft pot. What can I do to use this pot, but stabilize it in the slightly larger hole?

Has anyone ever built one?

Basically, it's an LED indicator that let's you know when your battery drops below a certain voltage. I'd love to build one for my active bass. Here's an example of a commercial one, but it's $40... gotta be easier to make one yourself: http://www.bestbassgear.com/john-east-bli-01-led.htm

Just something I threw together over the past few weeks from stuff I had been collecting. Forever, I've been trying to put together a dual-purpose guitar and bass overdrive/muff combo. I finally came to the conclusion that a better approach would be a guitar overdrive, a bass overdrive, and a muff. So, here it is. I can't take credit for the pop'd boards. They came from jubal over at Madbean/BYOC in two separate buys a few weeks apart— didn't intend to put them all together at the time. The lineup is:

Madbean Kingslayer II with OA126 diodes (Klon-type pedal)>Lamprey (Ampeg SFT clone)>King Tutt Muff (Pharaoh Muff clone). Used the 1776 breakout boards to make it easy on myself to hook everything up. That meant not putting the Kingslayer in buffered mode, which I kind of wanted to do, but I wanted to make this one easy on myself and actually finish.

It works! Finished it last night, but I'll need to do extensive testing this week.

What do you think of the enclosure? Ha... I'm almost embarrassed. It's meant to be "distressed" looking, but it's not pro-quality by a long shot. None of the holes line up with one another— though they all fit the board mounted pots. I originally painted the enclosure gold in homage to the Klon with testors. Then I used some watco clear, which ate through a lot of the gold and nearly led to a divorce when all of the fumes somehow blew into our bedroom. That said, I just proceeded with a "distressed" plan and there you have it. When I get a chance, I'll probably get new knobs for it.

[Situation:]

Hi,

Situation:
I'm building a multi-pedal—a 3 in 1—that starts off with a Kingslayer 2, followed by a Lamprey (SFT Ampeg type clone), and then a King Tutt (Pharoh Muff clone). I'm using 1776 3dpt breakout boards for all.

Question:
So, the Kingslayer runs at 18v due to a charge pump. How can I get that 18V into my Lamprey? Obviously, I could daisy chain the breakout boards... but my understanding is that if I did that, I'd just be daisy chaining the 9V, not the 18V. I've heard that the Lamprey sounds much better at 18V, so I'd like to run it at that if possible (the King Tutt, too, but not a big deal if that can't happen.

How do I do this?

thanks,
JR

In the Sunking BOM, there are a number of values to try for better use with bass. The components in the two (obviously) do not match up, though many are the same. Is there a way to apply the Sunking mods to the Kingslayer?

Here's what's suggested in the Sunking BOM:
C2: 220n 
C3: 1uF
C4: 220n 
C5: 100n 
C6: 220n 
C7: 100n 
C8: 270n 
C9: 1n 
C12: 6n8
C13: 56n
C14: 1n  
C15: 10n – 15n 
R16: 6k8 

I'm going to finish up a green russian muff build for bass this weekend.

So far, it's just a standard build.

Any favorite mods that I should consider? I'll be using it mostly on bass.

thanks!

Anyone have a great guitar for their kids?

My wife bought a cheapy toy guitar, but you can't even tune it. We have a baby taylor, but that's just a little too big for them for now.

Any ideas? Anyone play a Loog?

I've been planning out a multi-build for a while now and feel like I'm finally making some headway. I wanted to lay out the plan here to see if anyone has any input, advice, or troubleshooting. Any and all thoughts are welcome. It's an ambitious build, I realize and just in the planning stages, though I have most of the components. Still, I realize that it's probably not 100% doable. Or is it? 

Basic Idea: I play bass and guitar and would like a portable toneshaping/practice tool that I can plug into my practice space rig AND my home rig (which is a Tiny Giant 20 watt SS amplifier and a 1x8 cab—this is actually still in process too). 

Needs: No stomp switches. This is going to sit on top of an amp or on a table, so I feel like I can save room/compromise by not having stomp switches. That means that most everything will be on at all times except for the Fatpants and the Cab Sim, which I'll use 3dp switches for.

Blend function—this will be used with bass, so I need to blend the clean and effected signal. For that I'm planning on using the CP 1x3 buffer splitter: http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=44262. There are other ways to accomplish this, but I have 2 of these pop'd boards already.

The path I'm thinking of is this:

IN> 1x3 Captain Peyote Buffer for a blend> After life compressor> EFX loop>Six Shooter EQ> Fatpants>EFX Loop 2> Rub-A-Dub>Mix the clean and effected signal> ROG Condor Cab Sim> 1x3 Captain Peyote Buffer with an out to the amp and a second out that plug into a recorder or board.

Here it is drawn out:

Built this for a buddy for his birthday. It started out as a Civil War Muff on an old Gruntbox board with some substitutions. Yesterday, I was looking at my notes and realized that everything I subbed in actually made it a Green Russian Muff. Sounds awesome. Stamp is from Jackbear on Etsy (https://www.etsy.com/shop/jackbear). He did it custom... totally worth contacting him if you have something in mind. Doesn't show up so well on a blue enclosure but I like that it's ghosted a little.



Very complicated method for the back decals... my daughter's proprietary technique.



I put in a bunch of stuff backwards on the first try-- pretty much anything that was polarized went in backwards. Hadn't built anything in a while and was not paying attention! Lesson learned.



Enclosure is an old Toadworks second from a while back that I had in my stash. Not a pristine look, but not meant to be either.

What comp would best warm up the sound of a solid state amp? Bonus for working on bass and guitar.

I know very little about tube amps, so I'm sure that some of you can help me out here!

I have a '93 Fender Blues deluxe which is a fine amp with some well documented, though not unsurmountable issues. I went in two days ago and resoldered some cracked soldering around the tube sockets. That solved a noise issue, but now something else is on the fritz--dirty channel goes on and off when you have it on. The problem is really that the amp is a bunch of brittle pcb garbage on the inside. I'm fine to keep fixing it, but it's just going to keep breaking.

Here's my question: What would I need to do to just replace the PCB part? Could I essentially keep the cab/speaker/transformer etc. and just get some kind of point to point amp to "pop in" instead of the brittle PCB stuff?

I have no idea what is involved with this and even if it would be a good idea when time/expense is taken into account.

Any guidance/advice would be appreciated.

Does anyone have a diagram for wiring a pedal as "always on"? I'm making a THC headphone amp and just want it to be on when I plug the cables/power in. No need for a switch. I wouldn't mind hooking up an LED, too, though.

I have a rub-a-dub and want to add a delay to make it a 2 in 1. I have a BYOC classic delay but have the opportunity to get a cheap Cave Dweller. Any suggestions on what would make a better 2 in 1? What should the order be? Thanks!

Just had to say it. I know that there is a learning curve, but oh man.

I'd like to have a quiet home/late night rig. Has anyone built the TH headphone amp? Any other suggestions?

I have a super cheap multimeter that isn't getting the job done. Any suggestions on a basic, solid multimeter that won't break the bank?

Anyone using one on bass? What mods did you do?

Talked to Grindcustoms and he had a few suggestions to change the input cap, the low frequency cut off cap, and tone stack frequency response. Has anyone else built one just for bass?

Would it basically be redundant to have a bloviator and a 6 shooter EQ in the same box? Isn't the bloviator basically a 2 band eq?